Not unless you do it yourself, no.
More than likely some Borg doofus turned it on w/o having fully
tightened the arbor nut or checking that it wasn't only finger
tight--that'll run one one extremely tightly for sure(+).
But, it won't be tight enough to have stretched the shaft bolt
sufficiently to do any damage, no...
If'en the supplied wrench isn't long enough, use a bigger one :) or
block the locking one and use a hammer to apply a shock to the nut a la
an impact wrench...
(+)Once upon a time when just a young lad (relatively speaking, of
course :) ) in a hurry I thought that would be the quick way so did just
hand-tighten and go...well, it wasn't time well saved given the time
required to undo it later... :( Lesson learned, however...
When I realized one of the wrenches kind of slipped into a
slot that held it in place and put a lot of pressure on the other
wrench, it came loose. Thanks for the advice. I was being too
careful and your posts convinced me to give it a real strong
application of pressure.
On Thu, 10 Jun 2010 07:51:29 -0700, "gray asphalt"
Put some Liquid Wrench along the nut and give the area a few taps (on
an area that wont be damaged) with a small hammer. I'd call Ryobi
customer support first--their solution is probably best. You may have
a damaged thread.
wrote in message
On Thursday, June 10, 2010 9:51:29 AM UTC-5, gray asphalt wrote:
Got a heat gun? Aim it at the nut and the end of the arbor and let it heat
things up for a while, until you don't want to be leaving your finger on it
for more than a moment. Put your two wrenches on the arbor and the nut,
brace the arbor wrench with the heel of your hand, and tap the nut (in the
correct direction!) with a mallet or a hammer. Use a brass hammer if you've
Once you've got it off, take a look at the mating face of the nut to see if
it's been galled from over-tightening. If so, touch it with a small flat
file if necessary to take off any proud metal, then flatten it on a piece of
sandpaper or crocus cloth, using the table as the backing surface.
Afterwards, as an occasional maintenance task, give the arbor threads and
maybe the face of the nut a fingertip wipe with some anti-seizing compound.
It's not a lubricant, so you don't need to worry about it causing the nut to
Removing a stuck nut goes a lot easier if you've got a wrench or socket
that's tight and won't slip. Often the stamped "wrench" that comes with
the tool is a sloppy fit.
Sometimes turning the nut the opposite direction helps. It's not just
about left-hand threads, but sometimes tightening the nut a tiny bit is
enough to get things moving.
It's amazing how some of that old stuff floats to the surface again... I
find stuff I wrote back in the early 90s on BBSs, and documents I posted to
FTP sites, floating around on the www to this day. I remind my sons that
anything they put in social media may outlive them! LOL
Gotcha. And you should never have an issue with the nut coming off by
itself, arbor nuts are self tightening with use.
On the flip side of that, I have never oiled the arbor nut on any of my
saws and never had a problem with removing the nuts.
I would say that's an expected consequence of regular use.
If you routinely remove the nut (to switch from crosscut
to rip or dado set, etc) then corrosion and gunk never
collect on the threads, so they work as intended.
In the OP's case (the post from 2010) I'd guess Ryobi uses
air wrenches in their factory, and likely the nut was crossed
and the assembler just ran it up that way, not being able to
feel it wasn't right.
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