I need to buy a finish nailer to put up the trim in my house. What is
the difference between 15 and 16 gauge (besides 1)? Also, why angled
over not angled or vice versa? I was thinking Bostich ~150$.
Angled helps you get in corners or tight places. One difference I
noticed while working with my brother. My Bostitch (several years old)
would keep firing when the nails ran out. It is hard to tell where
they stopped because it still makes a dimple in the wood. His, a
Ridgid I believe, locks when the nails run out, forcing you to reload.
A small difference, but makes your day easier. Of course the new
Bostitch may have this feature now.
I've a 15ga Bostich angled nailer & I like it a lot, I have a few other
brands at different gauges, Porta cable seem fine. Grex make a great gun,
don't know if it comes in 15ga, I've a 23ga. I never had a Rigid gun, but
had one of their tablesaws once, it really turned me off them. Their
customer service was bad.
15 gauge is a little larger (diameter) nail.
I'd go with the 15 and if you need something smaller pick up a brad
nailer or pinner. We've always used angled guns on the job so I can't
For one houseful of trim, sure. For long term use continual use, not so
much. You're the one who knows that, not I... :)
I have Bostitch, been satisfied after 7-8 years of heavy when using, but
intermittent schedule, use. Probably 1 year equivalent full-time use,
Don't know about used unless can find another homeowner w/ a one-job use
similar to yours who wants to unload it afterwards. If a pro is
unloading one I'd expect it to be worn out or have some other reason for
not wanting it any longer to be far more likely. I have had reasonable
success w/ factory refurbs for a little cost savings, though.
There are those who swear by HF cheapies for the purpose, too, but no
experience here to go on...
I also have one of each HF. I pretty much hate them.
My next gun will have a quick jam clear latch holding the front plate
of the nailer on. Remove the air, pop the latch and clear the jam.
The hex bolts take forever to loosen and clear a jam. I didn't know
there was a stop when out of nails feature. This feature would be at
the top of my list too.
I have used my fathers Bammer. Man it is sweet and no hose/tank to
worry about but it is heavy.
I use 15, 16, and 18 ga. nailers to install trim. No one gun can do it all.
The 18 ga. is used for jamb extensions, stop moldings, 1/4 rounds, shoe,
and base in 3 piece baseboards, and occasionally at the thin side of
smaller moldings. A 15 ga. gun will kill these parts.
For painted grade trim, fixing door jambs, windows and sills /stools in
place, the s4s component of three piece base, and single piece base, I
use the 15 ga. On stain grade work, I try to hide the large holes with
smaller moldings as much as I can.
For stain grade trim that's too big for 18 ga. brads, 95% of my visible
fastening is with a 16 ga. tool, as it leaves a much smaller hole to
fill. Only when I absolutely have to boss a part into place will I put
15 ga. holes in the visible face of hardwood trim. If someone tells you
this is OK, ask them if they apply their own finishes, or if a finisher
follows them. If it's the latter, ask if they get along with the
If you only have the budget for one, I suggest choosing the one you'll
use the most, and doing the rest with a hammer.
Most of my nail guns have come from eBay, as it's easy to find the guns
that are included free with compressors rather cheaply. For instance,
two weeks ago, I bought another PC FN250B, brand new out of a combo kit,
for $50, compared with $150 for the gun purchased alone. The only gun
I've ever paid full retail for was my Senco 15 ga.
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