I noticed moisture under my compressor. I discovered a pin hole in it. I
immediately cut the plug off of the cord so nobody can use it.
My question is, has anybody in this group purchased a new tank and moves the
motor, compressor and pressure switches to the new tank. If so, how did it
turn out? :-)
What kind of compressor is it? For lower end compressors, it's hardly worth
the effort. It takes years of neglect to rust through a tank and small/low
end compressors are really built as throw away items. Compressor heads wear
and become less and less efficient. From a pure work perspective - it's a
simple job to put a new tank on a compressor, but why don't you check out
prices for a new tank, put a dollar value on your time, compare what you'll
end up with (air delivery rates, etc.), and price what a comparable
compressor would cost new. The tank is the least effective part of the
compressor. I'd suggest some basic cost comparisons first.
Low end direct drive oiless compressors are a great source for Tanks.
I took my 3 piston 5 hp granger compressor off of a bad tank and
mounted it on a Craftsman tank that had a bad compressor. I cut the
whole compressor / motor mount off the old tank and tack welded it to
the new tank. It has been working great for a couple of years now.
When I did the transplant I melted a little axle grease and coated the
bottom of the new tank. I also installed one of the harbor freight
devices that drains all the water out of the tank in a quick short
blast every time the compressor kicks off. Works great. I haven't
drained the tank of over two years. It was less than $20 on sale.
Only adivsed for good welders. The risk of the average chicken-shit welder
weakening the base metal is far too high. Unless of course - you're talking
about cutting and welding at the mounting bracket. If this is the case,
clarity is in order.
That would be ok for such things as air nailers, impact guns, etc. but would
be very inadvisable for spray painting.
Addditionally, the tank is an ASME code vessel and welding on the
shell will invalidate the certification if that matters. No recourse
back to the manufacturer in the event of future problems, liability on
the owner. And not worth doing the repair to code.
Frank, who was an ASME sec 8 Div 1, code welder in a former life.
Transplanted the bracket. Welded at the seams holding the ends of the
tank to the middle tube. All it took was a good tack weld on each
corner which is pretty easy with a mig if you start with clean metal.
Good point, I use my air for tools and I use a turbo HVLP for
The old tank made a great BBQ. There was much more rust damage inside
the tank than was evident from the pin hole leak on the outside. It
was actually very easy to weld a patch on the old tank (from the
inside once I cut the lid for the BBQ.)
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