I have a JDS air filter/cleaner which I want to mount in my shop (I also
have a dust collector). There's not a lot of info out there on
positioning, and some of it is contradictory. Grizzly recommends mounting
it diagonally in a squarish shop (which mine is), toward one corner. The
shop may not be big enough to matter, but any advice would be appreciated.
The TS is central. The lathe is perpendicular to the north wall. The BS
and planer and jointer are on casters, and can go anywhere.
One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the
house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the
door, which is in the SE corner. I can't figure out the best arrangement
for positioning the air filter with respect to the air outlet.
Dust, not chips.
There's some mileage to putting it near a router table, or workbench,
because that makes fine dust. A table saw makes coarser stuff that
falls by gravity, or is sucked up by the cyclone (most workshops need
a cyclone before a ceiling filter).
Mine's currently near the lathe, because lathe sanding throws a lot of
dust, and it throws it high. I also have a downdraught sanding table
to deal with finishing work at source.
Mostly though, don't put it near the door to the outside, or anywhere
near a draught. No point in trying to clean up the great outdoors.
I know this is never done, but if you RTFM you'll see that it warns not to put
it near the "exit path" or something of a machine..
Best protection IMHO is:
A good mask.. (do as I say, etc.)
A DC to get as much as possible before it gets to the mask..
An air scrubber to get the fine stuff that the DC misses..
Followed by going over the shop with a 2.5" hose connected to the DC before the
wife complains.. (My shop IS in the house)
Please remove splinters before emailing
The concept was flow in the room. It draws air through it and
will work the room better that way. Creating side currents.
Straight on might leave voids of dead air.
Temp mount it and do a smoke test. See how it draws a smokey pot from
all parts - find dead parts - rotate or move and test again.
I'm sure they had to defend their stance that it worked and proved the
Test yourself. It is in your best interest.
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
"Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer
TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com /
On 6/20/2010 8:19 PM, Andrew Barss wrote:
On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 01:19:22 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Barss
I've had mine in a couple of places in the shop.. I find that air flow is key..
Best place for me is with the intake end in the center of the room with the
exhaust end pointed towards which ever wall is farthest from it..
Either end too close to a wall or corner messes with the whole shops airflow..
Keep in mind that you don't want the intake near a machine, that's what the dust
collector is for.. The air filter is for what's airborne..
Please remove splinters before emailing
Mine, the same one you have, is mounted 7' up and mid way between my
workbench, where most of the sanding is done, and the miter saw, which
kicks up the most fine dust ... both being about 5 feet apart.
That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders
and, Festool CT22e Dust Extractor. :)
LOL. My super quiet Craftsman is in the attic, being super quiet and
unused. Seriousely the Festool Vac is quieter than the sander. The absence
of dust is the only indicator that the vac is actually running.
LOL ... yep, was so excited using the TS75 plunge saw for making
everything but gumbo, that, even though it was duly reflected in my
official shop tool inventory, I'd plumb forgot about buying the RTS 400
EQ back in December ... until I discovered that "extra" systainer the
It be Christmas deja vu, all over again, in June ... :)
Good thing, cause I really needed it at the time.
Now, I really see an overpowering need for the DTS 400 also, to complete
the threeO ... don't care to ever own/use another make sander. :)
Have you used the track saw to cross cut cabinet grade veneered
plywood and if so, how clean was the cut? I'm wondering if I can use
one of these track saws to occasionally replace the table saw with a
60 tooth carbide blade?
Answered this before, and maybe even posted pictures for you(?), but
yes. cabinet grade plywood is what is routinely cut with my TS75, and up
until recently with exceptional results an A1 grade stock.
That said, and after cutting a lot of utility plywood with it in the
interim, I did dull the blade by hitting an embedded drywall screw the
other day and noticed that the cut quality had indeed degraded slightly.
That can't be blamed on the saw, and this was in a rift sawn oak, A1
plywood that has had a notoriously brittle veneer in the past that is
even prone to splinter a bit with a Forrest WWII. Hell, it splinters if
you drag an assembled cabinet across the work bench or floor before it's
I'll simply use the blade in question henceforth for utility and rough
... it's wise to do that in any event.
If you did answer for me, then apologies for repeating myself. The
only thing I'd have to decide is if I want to get the TS55 or the
TS75. I'd be using it for sheet goods only and sincerely doubt I'd
need the extra depth cutting capability of the TS75.
The only considering being is the larger saw (weight and handling
difficulties from a sitting position) and the larger blade of the TS75
which would have several more teeth on it giving a slightly smoother
I felt like I needed the extra cutting capacity, and it turns out I was
correct in that.
There is substantial difference in weight ... about 4lbs, IIRC. In your
case, and particularly just wanting a saw to cut sheet goods, I suspect
the 55 may be the better choice in saws
Leon was recently on the fence with the same issue you face. Might want
to ping him and see his reasons for choosing the TS75 as he generally
gives these things a good deal of thought and consideration before
leaping, and rarely goes for size alone.
You will definitely be tickled with whichever one you buy. :)
How do you cut sheet goods from a seated position? I'm not constrained to a
seated position, but I'm also not all that damn stable when standing. AAMOF,
I was replacing the screen door to the patio a while back and ended up on my
back with the door on top of me! Not the kind of flailing I want to do
around the TS.
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 20:10:23 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
Very carefully. I use a wheelchair and have to work with what I've
got. Cutting up heavy sheets goods such as a 4x8 sheet of plywood is
extremely awkward for me. Often for safety's sake, I've had to use a
hand saw or jig saw to cut down sheet good to make them less unwieldy.
It takes time and effort,things I hate wasting. That's why I'm
considering the track saw. And since my table saw resides in a
friend's garage, I only get to use it in Summertime and there's
nothing like an infeed or outfeed table for me to use. The good thing
is that my friend can help me ~ when he's there.
Frequently, I get the whatever store I order plywood from to pre cut
some of it for me, but they often charge for that service and
won't/can't cut to exact size. I have to get them to cut oversize and
the cuts they will do usually have splintered edges all to hell. A
track saw could put much of that control back in my hands.
By 'track saw' you mean the Festool, right? How will that help?
I may have to use SWMBO as a push stick. :()
Yeah, that's pretty much what you get around here. They'll do one or two
cuts free and the rest at $0.50 a cut, but only to the nearest 1/2 inch and
it's a crap shoot whether ot not you get someone reasonably competent on the
panel saw. NTM whether or not the blade is in decent shape.
I'm thinking about building a panel saw for sheet goods. So far it's the
only way I can think of to safely cut them by myself. Though I may try some
lightweight sheets through the table saw first. It was two years before I
allowed myself to drive due to my loss of reaction time and I've yet to face
the table saw. Astonishing how much of what you do goes on outside the
On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 00:45:37 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
I have plenty of requisite strength if needed, but for me, it's all
about reach, or lack of it in my case.. A panel saw type of apparatus
would be suitable. Basically, something to hold a sheet of plywood
upright solidly, but several inches off the ground. Essentially, it
would be a panel saw without the saw part and I'd be adding the
Festool track saw to the party. Being able to lean down and up gives
me 5' or more of cutting reach which would be great for 4x8 plywood.
I suppose I could also lay a sheet of plywood flat on an table or
something and use the tracksaw, but not being able to lean over it, I
wouldn't have the reach to cut 4' across the sheet. At the very least
with 4x8 wood, I'd be cutting half, going around to the other side and
pulling the saw the rest of the way. Not all that safe and not great
for splinter free edges.
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