Melamine joining

IF you do find Roo glue, no need to remove the Melamine. that's the beauty of that stuff. It holds like gangbusters.

Biscuits are used > Any suggestions on building a small freestanding cabinet from melamine would

Charlie Self "Character is much easier kept than recovered." Thomas Paine

Did my first project with Titebond's Melamine glue a few weeks back. Stuck to me as well as the melamine. This is _not_ your carpenter's glue, so don't wipe a drip with your finger. Holds well, and in a couple of places it's glue blocks to wide melamine.

The first and best recommendation for work with melamine is a melamine blade for your saw. Second would be to use the biscuits rather than increase the risk of visible scratches on the slick service by making a lot of cuts. Full back and/or glue blocks will keep it from racking, limiting the stress on the biscuits to shear only.

Melamine glue is only needed when you are gluing the "face" surface to another "face" surface. Regular old Titebond will work fine on the particle board surfaces.

Rabbet and dado are good joinery methods, although many pros use butt joints and large bolts called conformat screws.

Melam> Any suggestions on building a small freestanding cabinet from melamine would

Are you saying that Titebond will join the particle-board edge to the melamine face reliably?

-- Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

Titebond Melamine glue will. Of course he didn't say that regular would.

Nope... regular Titebond will not do that, so I did miss out on that option. I use little, if any glue on melamine, I use fastners.

If you are gonna use regular glue, it should be on particle board surfaces only.

I have no experience with "Roo Glue".

Doug Miller wrote:

"George" wrote in :

The Titebond melamine is harder to find than Roo Glu! How about Gorilla Glue? I'm trying not to delaminate all of the areas at the joints. Yes I know biscuits and regular Titebond would work well if I removed all melamine from the joints, either shoulders of a M&T or face of a flush biscuited joint. That's a lot of routing to get an MDF to MDF joint.

Jerry

Mine came from a mail-order add-on, but with 150 miles to the nearest woodworking store, much less HD, a lot does.

Try the Elmers ProBond Poly. I'm building shop cabinets right now out of melamine. Before starting I tested this glue by face gluing melamine together. The result was impossible to break apart. On my cabinets I am using rabbet and dado to join the shelves to the sides, using the ProBond Poly and melamine screws. I'm very satisfied with the carcasses. In my case I didn't care about the counterbored screw heads from the outside, but I could have used pocket screws just as well.

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