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16 years ago
Ipe top for outdoor table
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16 years ago
Maybe that's one of the reason I'm known for building brick outhouses.
Lew
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16 years ago
Interesting, the acetone wipe works for teak, wonder why not IPE?
Anyway, most of the time I just give the acetone wipe lip service.
The 24 grit surface prep makes up for a lot of sins.
Lew
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16 years ago
it works ok but the joint is better without it. it is one of the urban myths of woodworking. one of the mags even tested it and found the same thing I did the joint was not as strong when it was used. not a huge difference only a small one.
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16 years ago
I did an 18x20 deck with Ipe that is now 5-6 years old ....if you want photos let me know. I did one coat with $50 a gallon specialty formula and it only lasted a few months. Wife isn't so crazy about the patina but it still looks great and certainly will last. Never saw hair-like splinters but for a while the kids did get some in their feet...this encouraged them to wear shoes anyway. I never sanded it. Very stable but very very heavy. I will make benches out of 1x4 I still have (just the seat and back) but if any table top is made it will be small like a coffee table. A full sized deck table top would probably weigh enough that your bracing underneath would be too expensive. I seek an outdoor stain and poly that will keep the color...I think I ran across one once. R Albany NY area
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16 years ago
I can't agree with your conclusion, Steve. I'm not sure which magazine you're referring to, but if you're talking about epoxy, there's no better source of information than the Gougeoun Brothers, makers of West System epoxy.
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West System user manual, generally considered the bible of boat building and epoxy construction, has this to say on the subject: "Teak/oily woods - Wipe with acetone 15 minutes before coating. Solvent removes the oil at the surface and allows epoxy to penetrate. Be sure solvent has evaporated before coating."
That only makes sense. You're only concerned with the ~1/16" depth of wood that will be bonded. You'd mentioned in an earlier post in this thread that the acetone drew the oils to the surface, and that it was better to just bond the freshly milled/sanded surface. A freshly milled surface has as much oil as anywhere in the wood. How could the acetone increase the oil at the surface? That's saying that the acetone concentrates the oil somehow, and, well, that just doesn't happen. Sanding it won't appreciably affect the oil content and is necessary with or without the acetone.
West also has a new adhesive coming out that deals with this exact problem.
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haven't gotten my hands on any yet, but I plan to test it out shortly.
R