While Ipe is about 3 times harder than Oak I think you may want to use
better blades and bits. LOL. I literally have cut up, planed, milled 3/8"
through slots, and beveled probably thousands of pieces of Ipe over and over
in a production setting in the past 4 years and have only had my WWII
resharpened 1 time and have only replaced 1 router bit. I actually got
better mileage using a 3/8" HSS end mill bit over a 3/8" carbide router bit.
On 26 Jun 2005 16:50:53 -0700, "Tattooed and Dusty"
HUH? I use it and other tropicals every day and get two months out of
a bi metal bandsaw blade 4 or months between blade sharpenings. 4
months or so on planer knives.
myself if I am machining wood I rather work with tropicals then
affordable handmade wooden planes
Where I come from, square feet and feet squared mean two different things.
500' X 500' is 500 feet squared, 25' X 20' is 500 square feet. 10^2 is 100,
not the sum of 2 X 5, but I may be more of a math nerd than a contractor, so
perhaps ft^2 does equate to sqft 'round here.
Nit pick: There is no such thing as "500 feet squared"
it is "500 feet square". Without the trailing 'd'.
If you _were_ a real math nerd, you'd know how wrong you are. <grin>
ft^2 is _universally_ understood in scientific and engineering circles to
mean 'square feet'.
When doing math involving terms with 'units' attached, the convention is
that you group the 'pure arithmetic' quantities first, and the consolidate
the 'units separately. and perform the indicated operations on each part.
thus "500 ft X 500 ft" is "500*500 ft*ft", or 250000 ft^2 (and read as
"2500 square feet.") an exponent in the 'units' does *NOT* apply to the
'arithmetic quantity' part of the expression.
This holds whether you are doing 'simple' things like distance/time = velocity,
or messy stuff which could involve terms with units like "newton meters/sec^2"
Since you are going to a LOT more expense, I would
consider an "under the deck" method of fastening
instead of a god awful number of screw holes that
will need to be plugged.
(1) IPE is VERY hard and will wreck most HSS edges.
On a large deck, think several drill bits and
(2) Look at "Deck Master" products that will allow you
to fasten most/all boards from below. This will be
a spec slower but the results are 200% better in the
Here are two different products with similar results.
Take a peek:
and don't forget those folks at
I would never fasten from above unless I had to.
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