On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 00:13:38 -0500, -@-.com wrote:
You'll need to ask for the good stuff, check out Sherwin Williams web
site before going.
Scroll down to 099300.
Some folks here have great local SW stores, mine are below average.
Hopefully, you're in one of the other guy's areas! <G>
If you want to play with lacquer and don't have spray equipment, try
Deft Clear Finish. The can doesn't *say* it's lacquer but it is.
Solvent is lacquer thinner. And it's meant for brush
application...applies easily and sands very easily. Comes in gloss or
I like an oil based finish on darker woods like Cherry, Walnut and
Ipe. I think it really brings out the grain of the wood and it just
can't be beat. Water based poly does not do nearly as nice of a job
in bringing out the grain as oil based finishes do.
Way back when I finished a really nice set of hard maple shelves with
an oil based finish. There is only one way to describe them...
"YELLOW". I will never use an oil based finish on maple or a light
I prefer water based poly or laquer on light woods depending on the
function of the piece. Laquer is by far the easiest finish to work
with and I do use the Deft rattle cans if I can finish the piece with
one can otherwise I buy a quart or gallon and use spray equipment.
For any sort of table top with a light wood I prefer water based poly
for it's protective qualities. It has been my experence the water
based poly will hold up a lot better than laquer. I recently built a
rail for a staircase out of maple with an IPE top cap. I used laquer
on the maple and oil based varnish (1/3 tung oil, 1/3 spar varnish and
1/3 turpentine) on the Ipe. I love the way it turned out. The oil
finish on a wood as hard as Ipe should last a long time. If the maple
gets a scratch, it will be a very simple repair with a rattle can of
P.S. When it comes to walnut many mills steam walnut to better
distribute the natural pigments througout the wood making the sapwood
closer to the same color as the heart wood. This has a tendancy to
greatly recude the impact of walnut. If I have a piece of walnut with
sap wood on it I try to position the sapwood on the final piece so it
becomes a feature of the piece not something I need to try to cover up
and blend in with the rest of the wood. Book matching two pieces of
walnut with sapwood can make for a very stunning visual detail in my
Not to pick on you, the following is for general information. <G>
"Waterbase poly" as offered to the consumer market by Minwax, Benwood,
etc... is not the same thing as the waterbased "lacquers" sold by
Target, Fuhr, Oxford, ML Campbell, etc... and aimed at the pro market.
There are distinct differences in application and in the appearance of
the final, finished product. Some of the waterbased lacquers will
even "burn-in" just like solvent lacquer.
Lack of burn-in is one of the big problems with any polyurethane
finish, oil or water based. If a polyurethane (as well as certain
varnishes and catalyzing products) finish is wet sanded enough to rub
through a layer, white "witness lines" can appear.
To "pop the figure" under good waterbase finishes, the finisher can
simply use dewaxed shellac as a sanding sealer, dye (Analine, NGR,
etc...) or BLO. BLO needs a good week to cure before an overcoat of
dewaxed shellac under water base. Dyes can fade, or be moved or
removed, by carelessly applied water or alcohol based top coats.
The problem I have with BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) is like all of the
other oil based finishes I have tried it imparts a very yellow hue to
the wood. While I find this perfectly acceptable on darker woods like
walnut and Ipe (even desireable) it is way to yellow for me on lighter
woods like maple. Some people may find the yellowish hue perfectly
acceptable on lighter wood. If I were going to put a base coat of BLO
on a project I would probabally just use an oil based varnish with it
(1/3 tung or BLO, 1/3 spar varnish, 1/3 turpentine, wait... wait...
wait for it to dry).
I have never tried a base or seal coat of clear shelac under poly for
"popping the grain". I have only used shelac under stain to try to
even the stain out. This might be worth trying on some test wood. I
find water based poly a little lifeless on maple and laquer not much
better. A little "pop" would be nice if it didn't impart any color.
Thanks for the tip!
It will add a little color, but the dewaxed super blonde will add very little.
BTW, I've tried a swipe coat of clear Watco under the shellac, as some have
said the combination "pops" the grain more. My eyes can't tell that the oil
has added anything on the cherry/walnut/alder/maple I've tried it on.
It's turtles, all the way down
From the sounds of it most of you spray on your finishes vs.
brushing them on?
I'm not up to spraying just yet still doing this stuff with a brush or
those foam brushes, but by spraying you usually end up with a very
thin layer(i'm going from experience of spray painting and spraying
protective clears on artwork). Even if you spray 2 or 3 coats won't
this still be a thinner layer than brushing on 1 layer?
And with the sprayed on layers don't you guys worry that when you sand
in between coats that you are taking of a layer completely?
I'm asking all these about spraying simply because the drying time for
me between coats of poly is 24 hours. So between stain, finishing, and
waxing I'm looking at a week of the piece sitting there doing nothing.
Any way to finish a piece in a day? Yes, that's shear ignorance
Thanks for all the help. It's nice to listen to experience for my
I think the best thing for me to do is what was suggested before, just
go buy a piece of wood and a ton of different finishing materials and
experiment and label what's what.
A one day finish?
Shellac can have a bunch of coats in a day. The question is
whether it is a strong enough finish for your use.
Lacquer can sure be done in a day, a couple of times over.
I don't think you want to start here, but do some research on
pre/post catalyzed lacquer and on catalyzed varnish and/or
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
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