I have just finished making a counter top out of birds eye maple with
2 1/4" strips of paduk. It is about 2 x 6 feet in size. Anyway, it
will be used as a bar to sit at and eat or drink while in the
kitchen. Thus there will be wet glasses and such on it. I bought
some bush oil (to pop the grain) and some "rockhard table top finish"
at Woodcraft, but I don't really like the looks of it when I applied
it to some scrap. It just came out too glossy and commercial looking,
also darkened it too much. I then tried just using boiled linseed oil
on another sample and liked the shade it produced better. So my
question is can I then just apply some MinWax over the BLO and still
get enough protection? I think I'll start with a satin and move to
gloss if it doesn't look right.
I think you do need a ployurethane finish to hold up to the intended
use. You can get water based crystal clear poly so coloration
shouldn't be an issue. You can poilsh out the gloss but with poly that
is really hard to do so just use a satin or semigloss finish and don't
do to many coats. For the best grain clarity when you want multiple
coats the suggestion is to do many coats of gloss and then a final
coat or two of satin or semi gloss. The satin or semi gloss effect is
created by adding a white paint like pigment to the clear poly so
multiple coats can start to obscure the grain.
Sorry, I meant MinWax Poly. Have you a better recommendation as far
as manufacturer? Your advice sounds good though. Do you think it's
a good idea to apply it over the BLO? There is a lot of figure in
these boards and I really want to maximize it.
Using Minwax Poly can catch you a lot of flack in some circles, but in
this case I think it's the right thing to use (and I agree with pretty
much everything Mr. Anonymous from SonomaProducts.com said). I used it
on our kitchen table (red oak, two coats clear, one coat satin), and it
turned out beautifully and has taken one HELL of a lot of abuse with
virtually no problems whatsoever. For each coat I basically flooded it
on the surface rather rapidly, with no real regard for brushing it out
smoothly, then wiped it down with a dry blue shop towel to get full
coverage, soaking up the excess and leveling it out, then as it began to
tack I followed that with another wipedown using a blue shop towel
soaked in mineral spirits, leaving the entire surface glossy wet. That
last step levels out the poly to a glassy smooth finish that looks like
it was sprayed on. Same process for all three coats, but on the final
coat when the poly was *almost* dry to the touch, I gave it a final
rubdown with a dry blue shop towel. If you catch it at just the right
time (you don't want the finish tacky or it will grab the cloth and
cause a mess) you can rub it out as smooth as a baby's bottom. My
method might sound kinda wacky to some, but I've done it many times and
hey, it works. :-)
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
I wanted to put a link to some pics as it might help illustrate what
I'm talking about:
In the two pics of the scrap, the one on the right where they are
standing on end is more accurate to color. The one on the left is
Bush Oil and Rockhard. The one on the right is just BLO. I prefer
the color of the one on the right, this is what I would like to
achieve, but with a poly or protective coat on it. The other pics are
the place where it will go.
Like Steve says, some folks have a bias against MinWax products but I
find them mostly as good as any others (I like Microsoft too) and I
have used their poly and it works well.
Yes, adding some depth and color with BLO is a great idea. Thin it a
bit with mineral spirits to help it penetrate and dry a little faster
and let it dry a few days before you overcoat with poly.
Steve was describing a sort of hybrid wiping poly approach. In fact,
most of the poly work I do, I do a wiping application. Thin the poly
by 50% or more with mineral spirits. Yes, the can may say don't thin
more than 10 or 20% but you can ignore that. Flood the surface with a
brush then immediately wipe it down with a saturated rag. Not so
saturated that it won't pickup the extra but not so dry that it
totally removes the material. Leave a super fine and smmoth suface
film using really precise strokes with a smooth face on the rag.
Don't touch it after you get it wiped down. Let dry 12-24 hours. On
pourus woods the first coat or two will almost dissapear. Then it will
start to build. Hand scuff and flatten after about 2 or 3 coats with
320 or 400 sand paper.. Then another coat or two or more (with satin
in your case) to you liking depending on how much build up you want.
Be careful in corners, molding seams, etc where you can get puddling
and over build.
Wait a week, then rub out with steel wool and wax.
Thank you. But I have been led to believe that water based poly will
preserve the color better then oil. Assuming that is true, what I'm
trying to find out is can I apply this safely over BLO? If I have
been led to believe the color part erroneously, please let me know.
Oops, my bad. I forgot you were going with water based for the
I don't have experience with WB Poly over BLO. It seems that most
folks suggest either a shellac coat in between or make sure the BLO
dries at least a week.
I think some full scale testing is required here. Sorry for the
primrose path, I forgot you were doing WB.
No harm. I just didn't like amber shade that the bush oil / rockhard
produced. It made it look to "plasticy". I want it to have a sheen,
but not look commercial. Your advice will be noted though for other
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