Finish

Sep 15, 2003 6 Replies

I am completing a bench, it will be used indoors, I need to know the most scratch resistant top coat available. Thanks, Ruben


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but not that attractive. If you want a clear seal, try bar top varnish

Vinyl siding.

If that does not work for you, epoxy paint

On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 08:15:30 -0700, "MSH" pixelated:

It depends upon what you really want, Ruben. It's interior. What's going to scratch it? Pants, kids with toys, knives, or screwdrivers?

Do you want a thick finish which is resistant to scratching, looks and feels like hell, is awfully hard to repair, and takes a lot of time and effort to fix? Use "good old poly" like so many of the guys here do.

Do you want a thin finish which looks better to start with, feels a lot better to the touch (like real wood!), and can be repaired in a few minutes? Try some Danish oil mixes like Watco or Tung oil; Waterlox, or Tried & True Varnish Oil.

(Am I a teensy bit opinionated or what? ;)

- Inside every older person is a younger person wondering WTF happened. ---

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Ruben, I agree with Larry on this one.

However, for a relatively simple, non-UV resistant, HARD finish . . . I reach for the water-based POLY.

If I want a really deep and 'resistant' finish, I 'lay it on' like varnish . . . several coats with progressively finer grits of sanding between. Ending with the application of a Teflon containing wax and buffing. I use GLOSS; if I need a 'non-gloss' finish I do a 'buffing' with BRONZE wool or 600 {plus}Carbide paper.

Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop

If it don't look like it's protected by an impenetrable layer of faintly orange plastic, it ain't finished. :)

Actually, I tried some oil finish on something once. Danish oil I want to say, but I can't quite remember. Watkins? Watco? After I became disenchanted with it and subsequently polyurethaned the piece, it finally looked finished.

No accounting for a lack of taste. ;)

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