I used a 3/4" router bit to create a dado for 3/4" plywood. Yep, you know it. And I know it too. How and why I did it is beyond me. At any rate, the wood does not have a tight fit. I'd like to fill the dado (or even a partial fill) and do it again. Can this be done? If so, with what? Will it be as strong or should I try something different?
Add thin strips to the piece that should fit into the dado so that it fits snugly in the dado.
"dan" wrote in news:48433aeb$0$31720$ snipped-for-privacy@roadrunner.com:
Options:
Cut a thin strip and glue it in place, then recut the proper size.
Damn, talk about taking the easy way out.. lol I'm trying to decide if a 3/4" strip to fill the dado or a thin piece inside the dado would be best, and you come up with a logical answer... not fair..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Cut the dado oversize, say 1-1/2, then glue in a piece of stock that matches.
When cured, sand smooth and recut.
Lew
Sorry, and sorry to say I had to learn the hard way also. ;~)
"mac davis" wrote
Well, you could just use the old finish carpenters trick. Just nail it in there and fill with lots and lots of silicone caulking!
Yeah! Swingman and I are quite familiar with that approach.
First, they do make router bits sized to match the actual size of 3/4" plywood. But I'm sure you know that by now... :)
In addition to the other suggestions mentioned, I have one other possible solution. Use thicker plywood for the cross piece, or glue a couple of thin sheets together, then rabbet the ends so they fit the dado properly.
One final idea, save the miscut board for a future project, and prepare a new sheet with the properly sized dados.
Anthony
You jest, but a gap-filling glue (Liquid Nails is cheap) can make it work. When my tenons are too loose, and it's not an heirloom project, out comes the caulk gun and thick glue...
If it has to be 'right', a 1/8" veneer ripped with the table saw can be glued into the dado, then router-trim one side of the inset piece to match. Fully housed tenons and/or half-housed are the only way to make plywood joinery like this work, IMHO. The plywood thickness is indeterminate by 0.050", and the router bit is only accurate to maybe 0.020", in my experience.
If you decide to shim the dado with a veneer strip, do it on the bottom where it will show less. On most shelves, it will never be seen unless it is above eye level. In that case put the shim on the bottom.
This is exactly what I planned to do. The veneer strip is exactly the thickness needed too. Thanks!
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