ff's is soft or hard maple preferred.

[OFWW]

Thanks to you guys I have new bits, and DADO blade kit.

What is considered a good price?

[OFWW]

Swingman mentioned that too. Do you mean reaction to other woods, or that some soft maple itself is reactionary, and what does that mean?

[OFWW]

Thanks Swingman, I was going to ask you as the bathroom cabinet you did 400 some miles from you was white.

[OFWW]

Then soft maple it is. I hate to use really good wood where it cannot be seen, but this seems like a nice compromise. It is hard around here to get clear poplar, without the gray streaks, and that stuff bleeds through the white paint even after it is sealed. I used it for some grandchild stuff. With kid safe paint/sealer.

[OFWW]

Hey, It all adds up. I appreciate all the input from everyone.

I happen to love maple. Although I am starting to like dark wood more.

[Scott Lurndal]

When a tree grows on a hillside, stresses can build up in the lumber derived from the tree. Reaction wood is caused by these stresses, which when relieved during milling, will seriously compromise the dimensionally stability of the timber. In other words, it will warp or bow when you rip or resaw it.

[Leon]

Free! LOL

Actually a good price will depend on your location. Prices vary widely depending on your proximity to the source.

[Leon]

Reactionary tends to warp or bow "immediately" after it is cut. The wood will often widen while being cut or the kerf will begin to close up as the cut is being made.

Swingman and I worked on a kitchen/bathroom remodel 5 years ago and I built a boat load of drawers for the bathrooms. We used hard maple and while ripping a piece to width it closed back up on the blade near the end of the cut and threw the keeper side back at me like a missile. Hit me just above the belt and thank goodness I was also wearing an apron. That was not pleasant. Fortunately only a large bruise.

A great reason to have a splitter on oru TS.

[notbob]

I love this newsgroup. Very little noise and a whole lotta info.

R U kidding me!? I saw that shop safety film in the 9th grade. The film stated the reason the piece of wood got shot back was cuz; no guard thingie; the blade was set too low, hitting the work at an angle guaranteed to turn it into a projectile; not using "push stick". The film showed the actor's intestines wrapped around the lance-sized piece that impaled him. A total hoot fer a nineth grader, but deadly serious, now.

I see a lotta youtube vids showing a guy pushing work into the tablesaw blade with no push stick and the blade seemingly set quite low. What should I know that was not shown on that safety film from the 50s?

I'm going over, today, to look at a tablesaw I might use to make finger joints.

Thank you for the info on "reactionary" wood.

nb

[dadiOH]

That depends upon how much you want and what grade. If you want 25 brd.ft. it will cost more than 250 brd.ft. If you want FAS or select it will cost more than #1 common.

It also depends upon where you buy it. Buy locally - assuming "locally" isn't near the source - and it will cost more than a place close to the source; buy there and you have to factor in freight. Which can be horrendous. I recently bought 200 ft+ of mahogany at $5.25/brd.ft. Total cost was about $1230 + $212 freight from NC to central Florida.

It also depends upon the vendor. One place in NC has soft maple for $2.60, another at $3.65.

BTW, IMO is is folly to buy FAS/Select in many cases. Judicicious cutting of #1 common can result in considerable savings. For little stuff like face frames - particularly when it will be painted - #1 common is appropriate. IMO :)

[Puckdropper]

notbob wrote in news: [e-mail]:

It's ok to set the blade lowish, I believe the current thinking is that having the gullet just clear the wood is the best compromise between not exposing too much blade and trying to get the blade moving down through most of the cut.

Your fence needs to be parallel to the blade. This will reduce the likelihood of a piece applying pressure against the blade, which is one of the first ingredients in a kickback recipe.

Do not trap the workpiece between the blade and fence. If you're taking only a 1/8" off, set the fence so the wide side of the board is against the fence and the small side is cut off.

Realize that there are pieces that are just too small to be cut with a power saw of any kind safely. You may have to plan ahead on a project that uses them to make sure the final cut leaves you with an exact dimension piece.

Puckdropper

[John McCoy]

"dadiOH" wrote in news:ne68j6$f6r$ [e-mail]:

Hmmm, I just got 200bf from NC down to the pointy end of Fla, and the shipping was free. 100bf of some kind of mahogany (probably khaya or something African) and 100bf of poplar for about $650 total.

Of course, the only reason it was shipped free was I drove up there in the pickup truck...my employer wanted me up there and they pay for me to drive, and don't care if I use the car or the truck.

John

[John McCoy]

notbob wrote in news: [e-mail]:

I don't think lack of a "guard thingie" would be a factor in that particular problem, but lack of a splitter or riving knife would be.

As Puckdropper said, setting the blade low has advantages and is considered an OK practice today. Avoiding kickback means having a splitter/riving knife so that the kerf can't close on the blade. Also, as Puckdropper said, don't do thin cuts on the fence side (as you push the wood into the cut you'll tend to rotate it towards the blade if you're pushing on away side).

Push sticks, feather boards, and outfeed tables or rollers to keep the board from lifting off the table are also good ideas.

And, from personal experience, avoid cutting thru knots. Even what looks like a tight knot can come loose when the teeth hit it, and having half a knot whistle past your ear like a bullet really gets your attention.

John

[dadiOH]

Lucky you. Next time you go pick up another 200bf of Khaya, ribbon stripe (quartered) for me. Play your cards right and I'll toss in supper :)

Was your mahogany about 14' long?

[notbob]

No doubt!

Thank you fer setting me straight.

I realize this is not half a century ago, but I still wondered. Thnx fer educating this geezer neophyte. I know what a feather board is and jes looked up "riving knife".

Kickback pawls are probably what I thought to be the "guard thingies" I saw on that ancient woodshop safety film.

I discovered our HOA has a rusty Craftman tablesaw and equally ancient Craftsman radial saw. Neither has a dado set, so I'll prolly wait fer my buddy, who has all three.

nb

[Leon]

Today.... ;~) Wait till school lets out, the squirrels will be plenty.

Well I'm not perfect and capable of making mistakes, unlike many that don't have much to show except their vast knowledge of how it will never happen to them. And eventually they make mistakes.... I do a lot of woodworking, compared to most. I know the risks and do what I can to guard against problems but do this long enough and you either accomplish little or one day you get hurt. Some never get hurt, some never have been in a car wreck.

A splitter is not always particle, like when cutting dado's or groves. I was using a push stick but again, something happened and you don't have time to think about that after something goes wrong.

You are going to have to be the judge as to what saw is best for you. My advise is to buy a good as you can afford. And past that get a SawStop. IMHO underpowered saws are more dangerous than those with plenty of hp. I would never consider less than 3hp but those are pricey.

[Swingman]

Rarely have used a TS guard since I got rid of my old overhead system, but never fail to use BOTH a push block, and a splitter.

The splitter/riving knife is the single most important device for preventing kickback on a through cut there is.

In the thousands of shop photos, it would be rare to see a glimpse of my table saw without some type of splitter ... this is one I made out of the old Delta guard that came with the saw ... not quite as effective as a riving knife, but a whole lot better than no splitter:

[Leon]

Correct but most guards have a splitter of some sort. And unfortunately most guards are probably more likely to cause injury than not, given enough time and the right circumstances.

I will never forget the dufuss on one of the DIY channels, IIRC Brad Stagg on the Ultimate Workshop showing how to cut a dado, WITH THE GUARD IN PLACE. The look on his face when the wood hit the splitter was priceless as was watching him get out of that situation with out mishap.

[OFWW]

Your usage of unfamiliar terms means more learning, I see. :) I was told either 2.14 or 3.14 bd ft for S3S Soft maple and 3.47 for Hard S3S Maple.

So when I get back to the store and order I'll firm up those prices and how much I need before I put down the Cash.

Today was a bad day, the 2 year old Yellow Lab started throwing up, then puking up everything in her tummy. She went out in the back yard, ate a bunch of grass, drank water and puked up everything shortly after. Within an hour she drank a lot of water and puked it all up. What a mess, ran her to the vet, end result surgery. She had swallowed a rock, fortunately it was smooth. We pick her up tomorrow. I told the surgeon to save me the rock. Paid more for that rock then the ring on my wife's finger. I'm thinking of having it mounted, the rock. ;)

[OFWW]

Whoa BABY! I'll make sure mine is on when I cut. You may have just saved a life, thank you.

I've been thinking about making a splitter to mount on the insert itself. Guess I'll be looking hard for one know.

Thanks!