If by "a couple of inches" you mean "five or six feet" I'll go with
that. I've had small pieces similar to what the OP described vibrate
into the back of the blade and cross the shop. Type of blade, type of
wood, blade height, phase of the moon -- there are a lot of factors
that can allow it to happen. *Normally* you only get a couple inches.
*Occasionally* something a lot more exciting happens. That is why it
is a good idea to keep out of the line of fire.
You are describing your experiences, Leon, which are a valid data
point, but they do not define what is possible, only what *you* have
Definition of a teenager: God's punishment for enjoying sex.
Oh...or is _that_ what Leon was going on so about--that it isn't
necessarily gutting time? I had no thought whatsoever about anything
other than it's possible for an offcut to get hurled--I figured "how
high" was sorta' immaterial if it's heading your direction and you're a
Anyways, as noted earlier, my lesson was taught in mid-forehead--unlike
my grandfather who had a faint outline of a hoofprint from a mule that
clocked him when he was a teenager to the day he passed, I can't see a
mark any more but I can still feel the place it struck if I need a
"don't do that" reminder. :)
LOL, no, I still stand behind the fact that circumstances have to be just
right for a loose piece of scrap to be thrown with any force regardless of
blade positioning. That all goes out the window if there is something
providing resistance when the scrap hits the blade.
Several years ago there was the talk about wearing a glove when using a TS.
The fear was that the blade would catch the glove and pull your hand in. I
conducted an experiment and pushed a canvas/leather glove in to the spinning
blade, the clove cut just like wood, no shredding and no pulling into the
blade, just a slot/kerf spot was the result. I don't think gloves should be
used, if your glove hits the blade you may be startled and actually push
you hand into the blade as a reflex. And yes I have flipped small pieces of
scrap in to the back of the blade and back tooth area with no constant
resistance. The pieces simply flipped back out most often still landing on
the TS table top. Typically the scrap is going to go right back in the
direction it came from.
What I am saying is that you should let scraps lay, don't move them while
the blade is spinning. The scraps are 99.9% more likely to simply push off
of the blade and go no where so to speak unless you physically push them
into the blade with resistance using something like a push stick.
Oh... I understand now. Yeah, it depends. If I can clearly get the piece
safely, and there is some danger of it getting caught, I will get it. If
I can not clearly get it safely, and there is some danger of it getting
caught I tighten my sphincter while I reach for the off switch.
You are right. I certainly don't want to push it into the blade!
Depends on the blade height. I always work (for through cuts) with my
blade as high as possible. If an offcut hits it, it lifts a little
but doesn't fly forwards. Working with the blade lowered "for safety"
will put offcuts in contact with a portion of blade that's travelling
forwards instead, thus throwing them at you.
Lesson learned huh Gordon? ;~) Apparently you trapped the scrap between
the blade and the push stick. Better to leave the scraps and let the next
scrap push through the pile or turn the saw off. "Unless trapped" between a
fixed object, push stick, fence, jig, and the blade, the scraps will simply
push away from the blade.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.