I have a Skil 1825 plunge router. I bought a template guide set
(http://tinyurl.com/33draq ), but unfortunately the adapter doesn't fit.
(Murphy's law - if it fits "most" routers, yours isn't one of them...)
I figured the easiest solution would be to make a custom base plate out
of some 1/4" MDF. Very rigid and easy to work with.
My problem is that I have no clue how to mount the adapter, or how large
the hole should be for the bushings. This is probably something obvious,
but I'm stumped.
The adapter ring has a "flat side" and a "beveled" side, and four holes
to mount it to the plate. Which side goes against the plate? I assume
it's the flat side.
The bushing guide consists of the threads, a ring, and finally the
actual guiding cylinder (http://tinyurl.com/3bmzyr ). The ring is 1 3/8"
in diameter, the threads are 1 1/8". From what I can glance from the
various image on the Net (e.g. http://tinyurl.com/2neqtk ), the hole
should be 1 1/8" in diameter, large enough for the threads to go
through, but small enough for the ring to hold the guide to the plate
(i.e. stand proud). Correct? Or should the ring be flush with the router
Any advice appreciated!
In order for guide bushings to work properly, they have to be centered
around the bit. I think it would be very difficult to make a base plate
that would allow you to keep the guide busing centered. My porter cable
(PC) plunge router base plate allows me to center the guide bushings by
using a centering bit that came with my guide bushing set. This might be
difficult for you to accomplish with a home-made base plate. I think I
might be time to upgrade to a new plunge router (i.e. PC or one that accepts
PC-like guide bushings).
I want a set of guide bushings myself, but have been unable to find
any that flat out say they will fit my router. I been thinking about
making a baseplate to accept the templates. One style of template wants
a 1 3/16's inch thru hole, and a 1 3/8" counterbore to sink the face of
the template guide flush with the surface of the router baseplate.
These templates come with (or you order separately) a threaded retainer
ring to engage the threads in the template guide.
Was I to make such a router base (I haven't done this yet, but I'm
thinking about it) I would use acrylic plastic so I could see what I was
doing better. Then I would mount the blank plastic to the router, and
use a small router bit to bore the center hole. That gets the center
hole ring lined right up with the router chuck.
Then I would use a hole saw in the drill press, at lowest possible
speed, to first do the counter bore, and then finally cut the thru hole.
Or, I might wager $18.50 with Lee Valley and order item 46J91.05,
adapter base plate in acrylic which is advertized to fit "most" routers.
Again, I haven't actually done any of this, so no guarantees.
Gloat. :-) I have a hole saw marked "Dial Saw", continuously
adjustable. "Cuts holes from 1 1/8" to 2 1/2" it says on the top. No
model number, no maker's address. Dunno who made it, I inherited it
from my father. Since he is now deceased, I haven't bothered to ask him
where he got it. Probably Radio Shack or Spags, or some such quality
I tend to like stuff I made myself too. I had to pull down the Lee
Valley catalog to check the guide bushing diameters, and my eye fell on
the beautifully made, beautifully photographed picture of a crystal
clear transparent router base plate on the same page as the gorgeous,
gleaming, brass, router guide bushings. All the stuff in that catalog
looks like jewelry, and I'd love to own it all, except I don't have that
much room in the shop. Or money in the checking account...
Take a look at the Leigh Jigs web site.
They offer several adaptors to enable you to use most any router with the PC
style guide bushings. Leigh uses their own unique guide bushings for some
jigs however their bushings mount just like the PC bushings do.
Five them a call, I bet they will have an answer for you.
Going a bit farther for you,
According to this chart you need to get the adapter from Skil. Skil part #
You can get it here.. $7.38 + s&h
Leon - thanks for looking all this up!
The chart lists RAS140 for the Skil 1825, and 91803 for the other
models. Interesting, since RAS140 appears to be a Bosch plate...
I think I'll get both. Hard to go wrong for that kind of money.
If making your own doesn't work out . . .
I was in a similar situation with a Ryobi RE180PL plunge router.
I found though that the Milescraft TurnLock Base Plate and
TurnLock Bushing Set could be made to work. It's all plastic
and not as nice as having brass bushings--but it works well enough
From looking at what routers are directly mentioned I see a Skil
1823. I don't know how close or different that might be to your
model. If you have a Lowes nearby, they should have the Milescraft
stuff in stock to look over.
If you want to reply via email, change the obvious words to numbers and
Making your own base isn't hard. Phenolic (paper or linen reinforced)
polycarbonate (a.k.a. Lexan, Tuffak) are both durable enough
and better than MDF. You don't want it too thick, or bit reach
gets compromised - quarter inch is about right. Look for a
plastic supplier in your area. Or, ask a sign shop about scraps.
First, get the attachment points scribed accurately on the blank.
Remove the original base, center it on your rough-cut blank, and mark
Drill and countersink them (I like to use Allen screws to hold the
plate on), then attach the new base, put a bit in the router and use
to plunge the center hole. If you use flathead screws, the
taper/countersink does centering pretty repeatably.
Then put a dowel (1/4" steel dowel) in place of the bit and using
router and 1/4" bit, trim the outer edge of the plastic. Iit will be
match for the second router in diameter, this way, and well
centered on the spindle. Is that clear? You guide the outside
circular cut by the second-router base against the dowel...
Finally, remove the new base and center it on a drill press -using
a 1/4" dowel in the drill press to center. With a hole-cutting jig,
a simple hole saw if the size is right, cut the central hole to size.
I think some jigs work best with a recess for the ring as well as
a hole for the threaded barrel. You want the ring around the
guide to provide the centering, NOT the threads, which work
best with some clearance.
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