Which holds up better for a driveway--concrete with the glass fibers
or plain concrete with wire reinforcement?
I had some walks poured a few years ago and got both. I asked for
plain so they put in the reinforcement then poured the fiber type.
The contractor said that was all that was available that day. They
stayed fuzzy for a couple of years, making it difficult to blow off
the leaves and pine straw.
On Friday, February 12, 2016 at 2:49:17 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
Once again, you are right.
As a cub superintendent pouring tilt panels, I learned the difference when
the job structural engineer made it a point to embarrass (humiliate?) me in
front of the old hands in the concrete crew.
There is no such thing as cement sidewalks, driveways, parking lots, founda
tions, or anything else. Cement is a material of some type that is used to
adhere objects to one another.
As you said, concrete is a manufactured product that is used in the above m
entioned examples, that uses cement (usually a variant of Portland process)
as a binder for the other ingredients.
I used to pour a lot of concrete, but that was years ago. I had no idea th
at the glass reinforced stuff was being used for driveways and such. Can a
nyone point me to a link?
I was looking around and all I have found is the glass reinforced concrete
being used as it was years ago for cast columns, pediments, window treatmen
ts, faux stone ornamentation, counter tops, etc.
Any direction would be appreciated. For some dumb reason I have always bee
n fascinated with concrete.
BTW Mr. Ross, if you pour regular concrete, ask your contractor what the co
st would be to go from 2500psi poured at a 5" slump to 3000psi. It shouldn
't be much, but it is a lot stronger. Also, find out what your city code m
inimum is for steel reinforcement and add a little to it. Our code minimum
here for driveways is 3/8" rebar on 24" centers with 1/2" bar treatments o
n the perimeters. I usually go to 3/8" bar on 16" centers and it is much s
tronger with a tiny increase in price over the project. It usually only ad
ds about 6-8 pieces of steel on our regular sized double wide driveways, th
Looking forward to some info on the glass stuff; if anyone can post a link
I would appreciate it!
I believe either is going to be greatly dependent on the surface
preparation before the pour.
I would probably go with the wire reinforced. At least that is how the
driveways are done around here after the builder driveway fails. But
soil conditions and ground prep will probably make a lot of difference
in how long either holds up.
On Friday, February 12, 2016 at 3:34:17 PM UTC-5, email@example.com wrote:
I think it will also have to do with the thickness of the slab, the area be
tween joints and the compression strength of the concrete, assuming of cour
se that the subgrade has been properly compacted/prepared. IMO, they are no
t necessarily redundant. Proper cure will significantly increase the durabi
lity/lifespan of the concrete.
Fiber and wire mesh both serve the same function, to minimize cracking and
to hold the concrete together when it does crack. Neither offers any real
structural advantage. The problem with wire mesh is that it's usually not
centered in the slab very well. They normally lay it on the ground and pull
it up as the concrete is being poured, thus reducing it's effectiveness.
The glass fibers, on the other hand, get mixed into the concrete and are
evenly distributed. So you end up with lots of little fibers holding
I used the fibers in my garage slab. The finishers didn't like it because
it made it difficult to get a nice steel troweled finish. But, I thought it
turned it very nice. My slab is about 5 inches thick, 24'x28' with NO
control joints. 15 years later I only have one tiny hairline crack in one
of the doorways. It's about 3 feet long, but you can't feel it with your
hand. That said, my garage is mostly used as a wood shop, and only rarely
sees the weight of our cars.
To add structural strength, you would need to add rebar reinforcement.
Concrete is very strong in compression, but weak in tension (such as
bending over a void under the slab). Rebar helps with that and/or you can
make the slab thicker. Of course, it would be wise to start with a good
compacted gravel base before you pour the concrete.
There's no reason you couldn't combine glass fibers to reduce cracking and
rebar to add structural strength.
That was my experience in the home I built 20 years ago.
I was very impressed with the fiber-crete.
Ahh, there's the rub, huh? A concrete parking slab is only is strong as
the base on which it's laid... and it was never intended to be. A
concrete pad is a concrete pad. A concrete bridge is another animal
entirely. That's where the rebar comes in, as you described.
Way too many concrete pads are poured onto way too soft of ground. In
my opinion, the base should be strong enough, alone, to bear whatever
load is intended to be on the concrete.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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