I looked at the video of the guy making chopping blocks with the
laminate then cut then insert slice then laminate and repeat technique
doing a variation on this (not a choppingblock) and used the jigsaw
it's not a bad cut but it's not so clean that it only needs a light
Share your method for this step if you've used the technique.
didn't want to change my bandsaw blade to do this but maybe I should
Which video? I built 6 cutting boards in December with curvy laminated
veneers. It does involve much more than cutting with a BS and gluing if
your curved veneers are of significant thickness.
If your veneers are going to be curved you must remove as much material
as you plan to replace or the radius's will not be the same for mating
I don't have those tools but that's the video I saw so I will
find a remedy with what I've got
something occurred to me though, those really fine inlays are going to
be sliced up over time and break free
it's beautiful work but the wrong application
I rarely use a router but I have two from days of old. There's bit he
uses on the curve face with a bearing on the end.
what's that doing?
Yeah but not a big problem though. They are glued in there so big
chunks don't come out. Obviously end grain boards have an advantage.
He actually works each cut of the panel in 3 steps.
With the hand held router he cuts a curved grove using the bearing on
the bit to follow the guide. This is strictly to establish the curve
and to give a smooth surface for the bit in the router table to
reference after cutting the panel in that grove.
He makes about a 1/4" deep cut.
This cut provides a smooth surface on both halves, after cutting apart
with the BS, which will be his reference surface for the flush cut
bearing bit in the router table to follow instead of the pattern.
Essentially this finishes off what the smaller bit started with the hand
They aren't really inlays per se because they are as thick as the base
material. As such, if the board does start looking exceptionally ratty it
wouldn't be a problem to use a card scraper, or something like a Stanley No
80, to clean up the surface.
I did that with the large maple cutting board countertop at my parents'
house... it had seen about 35-40 years of use and was cut up pretty badly.
That in itself wasn't too big of a deal until my mother put something on it
that caused the entire surface to become gummy... My brother tried to sand
it... Major Fail! I took it back to my shop and in short order had the
entire surface cleaned up with the No 80. I also applied mineral oil to the
surface. It looked like new and wasn't sticky any more.
Also, a cutting board like this may not be the everyday board...
Correct, more like a lamination. Nailshooter got one those cutting
boards and he says he keeps them in good shape by sharpening his knife
every time he cuts on the board and not continuing to saw away after the
cut is completed. And uses one of those stainless steel scrub pads, that
look like a Slinky that got twisted up too much, to scrub the surface.
He claims that the surface stays relatively unblemished.
LOL. That is a pretty good optical illusion. Reminds me of a picture
that Swingman took of me when we were installing some kitchen cabinets
that he and I built. I appeared to have no head.
The video addresses that. I used 4, 1/8" veneers and removed 1/2" for
each location. I cut the veneers on the band saw and sanded down to
1/8" with a drum sander.
The trick to making a smooth cut in the board is to make a shallow cut
against a pattern with a 1/2" bit and cut in the resulting grove with a
BS. Then with a flush cut pattern bit against the shallow grove remove
the rest of the material.
I noticed that in the video... seems so obvious once someone points it out!
But then I've been playing with my shaper and doing pattern shaping. Maybe
because of that I am more tuned into what was in the video than some others
I actually used a small flush cut bottom bearing bit in my small Makita
trim router to follow a pattern clamped to the cutting board. I took
out most of the remainder 1/2" wide grove with the BS so that my cleanup
cut with a 1-1/8" bottom bearing bit in the router table would not have
to do much but take out what was remaining, up to the previously made
grove using the trim router.
There are a lot of subtle things going on in the video that you need to
consider, as you have noticed. ;~) I think I watched the video 4~5
times to understand how he got to where ended up and why.
I do recall him switching to a smaller bit for to follow a pattern when
he wanted his inlay to be narrower.
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