The rails on the Delta 36-T30 are spec'd at 57.5".
Based on the size and layout of my shop, I don't want/can't have the overall
width of the table saw to be any more than the current 36". The original rails
on the Craftsman saw extend about 27" on the right of the blade and support
the router table that I added. I do not want the Delta rails to extend any
farther than the current rails. I just don't have the room.
Other than obviously voiding the warranty, is there any reason that I can't
shorten the front tube and 2 pieces of angle iron to fit my needs? As far as
I can tell from the manual, the rails just extend into open air, as shown
in Figure 5 on Page 5.
I would cut the rails so that they are just long enough to support the
current router table.
There are many instances where people have shortened their rails, this
is often required if adding a sliding table.
Anyway just remember that your fence needs 5~8" of rail past the widest
rip setting to properly clamp to the rail. The rip capacity will always
be several inches less than the length of the rail past the blade.
On Wednesday, September 27, 2017 at 9:49:40 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
Thanks. Yes, I am aware that the rails need to support the right side of the fence bracket.
I am hoping to end up with 24" of rip capacity to right of the blade with the fence. I can gain
another couple of inches by clamping the fence for the router table extension to the very end
of the rails. That should suffice for the vast majority of my needs.
On Monday, September 25, 2017 at 9:51:51 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Yes...Yes, I can. ;-)
The cutting. I'm glad I hung onto my old miter saw when I bought the Bosch
Gliding miter saw for the shop. This old Delta cut a lot of steel back in my
Soap Box Derby days. I wouldn't have wanted to cut the rails and tube with
with the new miter saw.
The final set up. My shop is in the basement of the addition off the back of
my house. The table saw is "half-stored" in the old window opening of the
original back wall of the house. The new rails fit into the boxed-out opening
with about 1/2" to spare.
After mounting the fence system, I drilled and tapped the front tube to mount
the power switch so it's easily accessible.
I can leave my $60 pawn shop router on the router table extension. When hanging
below the top surface of the table, it just clears the old window sill when the
table saw is rolled into it's cubby.
In addition to cutting both ends of the rails and the tube, I had to drill
a couple of holes to mount the back rail. I was able to find matching holes
for the front rail, but there was only one hole that lined up for the rear.
All in all, it was a relatively easy install. The fence needed absolutely no
adjustment to be square with the blade and just a minor tweak to be square
with the table. It's a vast improvement over the old fence. It glides very
easily, it's square in every direction and I finally have a usable ruler.
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