Can I Cut The Rails On A Delta 36-T30 Fence System?

[DerbyDad03]

The rails on the Delta 36-T30 are spec'd at 57.5".

Based on the size and layout of my shop, I don't want/can't have the overall width of the table saw to be any more than the current 36". The original rails on the Craftsman saw extend about 27" on the right of the blade and support the router table that I added. I do not want the Delta rails to extend any farther than the current rails. I just don't have the room.

Other than obviously voiding the warranty, is there any reason that I can't shorten the front tube and 2 pieces of angle iron to fit my needs? As far as I can tell from the manual, the rails just extend into open air, as shown in Figure 5 on Page 5.

I would cut the rails so that they are just long enough to support the current router table.

[BillinGA]

I can only tell you what happened to me. I cut the rails on my saw and it is now on my permanent record.

[Leon]

There are many instances where people have shortened their rails, this is often required if adding a sliding table.

Anyway just remember that your fence needs 5~8" of rail past the widest rip setting to properly clamp to the rail. The rip capacity will always be several inches less than the length of the rail past the blade.

[DerbyDad03]

Thanks. Yes, I am aware that the rails need to support the right side of the fence bracket.

I am hoping to end up with 24" of rip capacity to right of the blade with the fence. I can gain another couple of inches by clamping the fence for the router table extension to the very end of the rails. That should suffice for the vast majority of my needs.

[DerbyDad03]

Yes...Yes, I can. ;-)

The cutting. I'm glad I hung onto my old miter saw when I bought the Bosch Gliding miter saw for the shop. This old Delta cut a lot of steel back in my Soap Box Derby days. I wouldn't have wanted to cut the rails and tube with with the new miter saw.

The final set up. My shop is in the basement of the addition off the back of my house. The table saw is "half-stored" in the old window opening of the original back wall of the house. The new rails fit into the boxed-out opening with about 1/2" to spare.

After mounting the fence system, I drilled and tapped the front tube to mount the power switch so it's easily accessible.

I can leave my $60 pawn shop router on the router table extension. When hanging below the top surface of the table, it just clears the old window sill when the table saw is rolled into it's cubby.

In addition to cutting both ends of the rails and the tube, I had to drill a couple of holes to mount the back rail. I was able to find matching holes for the front rail, but there was only one hole that lined up for the rear.

All in all, it was a relatively easy install. The fence needed absolutely no adjustment to be square with the blade and just a minor tweak to be square with the table. It's a vast improvement over the old fence. It glides very easily, it's square in every direction and I finally have a usable ruler.