Been using West System epoxy for years but just recently started using
their 207 hardner which gives a slightly amber, clear finish as an
interior varnish. I put it on with a brush and it leveled out
beautifully. Problem is its drying time allows it to collect dust. I
just put it on the cabin sole (floor) of a boat and if it were not for
the dust it would be perfect.
Anyone ever tried buffing out a 105/207 finish coat? How long does it
need to cure before buffing?
Joe Bleau wrote:
> Been using West System epoxy for years but just recently started using
> their 207 hardner which gives a slightly amber, clear finish as an
> interior varnish. I put it on with a brush and it leveled out
> beautifully. Problem is its drying time allows it to collect dust. I
> just put it on the cabin sole (floor) of a boat and if it were not for
> the dust it would be perfect.
> Anyone ever tried buffing out a 105/207 finish coat? How long does it
> need to cure before buffing?
You have a bigger problem than dust.
The 105/207 contains NO UV inhibitors.
Even on a protected cabin sole, expect it to yellow out and blister.
May take two seasons, but it will happen.
> What would you have used? Thanks, JG
On one hand, an unfinished teak & holly sole provides a non slip
surface so necessary in a seaway; however, many people do not find it
OTOH, varnish (not spar) or clear L/P provides a nice shiny surface
that can be very slippery in a seaway.
Believe it or not, I used Scotts Liquid Gold, applied monthly.
Was kind of like oiling your furniture.
Well, the valuable thing about this group is there are so many who are
willing to help and share ideas. I really appreciate Lew's response
telling me that I have "a bigger problem than dust." However, Lew
doesn't give me much credit for having thought this out.
I am well aware of the slipperiness of any varnished deck, whether it
be teak and holly or sassafras. I am also knowledgeable about the UV
exposure problems of epoxy. In this case there happen to be a couple
of mitigating factors: (1) West system 207 epoxy hardner, unlike other
West hardners, contains a certain amount of UV inhibitors--not enough
for full UV exposure but probably sufficient for a cabin sole which
only gets whatever UV filters through port lights, hatches, and
companionways. But that is not the end of that story, either.
Tomorrow the Miami boat show opens. For years I have passed a booth
where a guy sells a high-gloss, non-skid varnish. Since I do not
really know the product I decided that I would put down the 105/207
and top it off with this guy's non-skid product. That way I would
have a very hard and durable coat on the sole while could then be
coated with the high-gloss non-skid.
When I saw how well four coats of 105/207 looked (with the exception
of some dust that needs buffing out) I gave some thought to buffing it
and leaving it without anything additional on top. My 41-footer is
well equipped with grab rails which I have strategically placed based
on years of moving about the boat, occasionally in 20-foot+ seas.
Naturally, I would prefer a high gloss non-skid but if I can't have
that I will just take my chances by either buffing out the 105/207 or
using better dust control for the final coat. Somehow this is more
appealing than having to oil down my cabin sole every month.
105/207 has been used for years by boaters who seek long-lasting
bright work. Several coats of 105/207 are put on the wood, followed
by the exterior (UV) varnish of your choice. This is not something
new or experimental. It is even used by canoe, kayak, and runabout
builders who seek a varnished hull. I, personally, have used this
system for years on my exterior bright work.
My question was, and remains, has anyone in this group ever tried
buffing it out. If I do not get an answer from someone who
understands what I am doing I will simply put several coats on a test
panel and see for myself whether it buffs or not. By posting here I
was hoping I could benefit from someone else's experience and avoid
the work of creating a test panel.
As a matter of fact I have been thinking that I will use the 105/207
on the next piece of furniture I want to varnish. On furniture I can
obtain better dust control. The great thing about it is that you can
apply four coats in one day. 105/207 is almost all solids and will
fill open grain in an amazing way. It is resistant to all the
solvents I know of (at least those used in furniture finishing) so, if
one wanted, any sort of top coat could then be applied
(nitrocellulose, polyurethane, alkyd varnish, water-based finished, et
al). It does not to be sprayed but will level out nicely using a
quality natural bristle brush or by using the roll-and-tip method. I
will be quite surprised if there isn't a furniture maker in this group
has not already discovered this. If not, then I think the word will
get out as it really lends itself to one-of-a-kind furniture
Let's see how it develops and thanks for your help.
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