I have a commission that requires me to hang 2 doors made of laminated
glass and urethane. It's 17" x 48", and weighs about 50 pounds..3/4" thick.
This is a free standing cabinet on casters to top it off. 40" wide 20" deep
60" tall. The company that makes the panels is the one commissioning me.
They can drill holes anywhere I want. 3/4" thick is the potential problem as
far as off the shelf hardware. I like the idea of a pair of pivot hinges,
putting the weight of the door on the bottom rather than the cabinet
sides...( torque ) This is a nice looking hinge if it could handle the
So any ideas from the peanut gallery ??? Joel
On 28 Dec 2004 04:53:39 GMT, email@example.com (Bob K 207) wrote:
I might be wrong [been there], but isn't the glass held in by turning
the two screws for compression? With no second side, there's nothing
to hold it in place unless drilled through ...still an option.
I'd contact the hinge company. They seem to know what they're doing
and might affer soem advice ...they want your business.
In those I've seen, the glass usually fits into them as somewhat of a
compression fit with sticky tape. (I repaired my vent windows in that
same manner.) Then the setscrews enhance that holding power, sometimes
against rubber-coated plates which distribute the screw's pressure.
Very good idea. For the end customer's sake, the style of hinge
he showed us would be good. Through-holes might double the cost of
a replacement to the end user.
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I guess that makes sense enough. In that case I would not be looking at
*any* off the shelf solutions. 3/4 inch glass is going to weigh a ton and
standard hardware is not going to handle it. Equally, any hardware that
simply screws into a wood frame with 5/8 wood screws is going to be put to
the test. Again, I haven't kept on top of this thread from the beginning,
so I apologize if I'm asking something that has been covered already, but
what are your design plans for carrying this glass? I'm assuming the rest
of the cabinet is also 3/4 inch glass, framed with wood? You're certainly
going to need a lot of counter balance to offset the weight of that plate
when it opens. This is taking on the nature of a neat sort of issue...
Yes the rest of the cabinet is the same glass... the back is going to be 3/4
plywood. The bottom of this unit is going to have 2 doors, closed cabinet.
As for the counter weight... I plan on having a false back in that bottom
compartment and I will fill that with buck shot and the sides of the upper
are the 3/4 glass to I would think that should help the situation. I plan on
making the bottom unit very rigid. Double 3/4 inch wall all around and the
very top, where they want lights will also be a torsion box. I'm still
concerned about racking on the cabinet... then the doors could have problems
or just not sit straight.. Being on wheels certainly isn't helping...
Those style hinges look like a winner. Maybe look into similiar style hinges
used on glass shower doors for the thickness needed? Also, cabinet you
described sounds as if it would be really easy to tip over with those big
glass doors open on it, be careful! --dave
Since this is a heavy custom piece of work, you might not find an off the
shelf solution for the hinges. Why not talk to a couple of local machine
shops and just have them make you a set of pivots? This way you can make
them as beefy as you need and won't have to settle on something of inferior
quality or style.
It seems to me if you started with some stainless channel and had the shop
weld a couple of 1/4" pins on the bottom these could be set into a small
plate with a nice little nylon bushing, and perhaps even a thrust washer on
Probably would not cost that much to do and the stainless can be either
brush finished or buffed to a high polish.
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
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