You're living on the edge as it is. When that breaker trips the lights do
out. That is not a lot of fun with power tools. Since you are buying a
jointer, I assume you are running other power tools also. What is the DC
going to run on?
Your options may not be as limited as you think. There are was of getting
power that may seem illogical, but are done all the time. Fishing a wire 90
feet may be a PITA, but it is also possible to run a line outside along the
house and back into the garage. There are safe and code compliant ways of
doing that. Talk to an electrician and he'll probably have a half dozen
solutions to give you plenty of power for many tools. He will probably want
to keep the lights and add circuits for the tools.
If the breaker box is 90' away, the voltage drop will kill you.
It took me 2 hours and maybe $40 in materials to run a 240v line 80' to my
TS. Certainly that is a better idea than replacing a motor!
Don't you want to use a DC with your jointer? How are you going to do that?
In fact, if you have 2 amps going to your lights, then you will be trying to
put 24a on a 20a circuit just for the jointer; a horribly bad idea.
I never use more than one tool at a time, but I have a 240v and 3 120v
circuits to my shop; and it is not much of a shop.
Somebody suggested putting in a 60a subpanel. I wish I had done that, but I
put them in one at a time, thinking each would be the last one.
I don't disagree with the others that it will kinda work as long as you
don't mind tripping breakers and all the safety issues that involves.
But I would also warn against voltage drop. That can really kill a motor
and yours will be pretty bad on a 20a line.
If you can convert to 240v and put in a new circuit, that would certainly be
the right thing to do.
I agree that the best solution is an upgrade to 220 v circuit. But this
will take two slots in your breaker box, so you will need to have an empty
slot or give up a current circuit - but you would not have to chanage the
wire, only the receptacle. And, of course, the connection to the motor has
to be redone (which is probably possible for this size motor). But if you
do decide to keep it on 110 v, make sure that the wire size on the current
20 amp circuit is 12 gauge or larger (10 guage would be preferable). I
have seen many cases where someone at some time simply replaced a 15 amp
breaker on 14 gauge wire with a 20 amp breaker w/o changing the wire. That
I think mine are either Square D or GE.
The breakers are even sold in HD & Lowes. One of my panels will only
accommodate half space breakers in the bottom 6 slots (3+3), the other,
larger panel will take many more. The very modest house (not custom by
any means) was built in 1990, so they aren't THAT new.
I know what you are talking about at HD but IIRC, none of them support 220V
but I could be wrong. In order for that to happen, the double half sized
breaker would need to come in contact with both poles and I am unaware of
any box that would support that or how it could even be done unless the box
has slots reserved for only that type of breaker. All of the double single
slot breakers I've seen just give you two 110V circuits in the space of 1
but they are both on the same pole. I have to go to HD later and now you
have me curious so I will head to the electrical department to check that
If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving
"B a r r y" <keep_it_in_the_newsgroup firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
I think he's talking about a quad breaker. You can run four 110v, two 110v
and a 220v, or two 220v circuits off a two slot quad breaker.
In the case he is discussing, it is a half, two halves tied together for
a 220, and another half. The center two halves do take up a "single slot
space", the catch is you need to have a half above and below it because
it needs to span two poles.
Actually, he is correct. While at the Home Depot, I checked it out. Only
GE offers this odd setup but they really do have single unit 2 pole
breakers. In order to use it however, it requires removing two standard
breakers ( if the panel is full) as it sits between where the two standard
ones fit. To fill in the gaps you will need to buy two half size breakers
but on the positive side, by doing that you will get your 220V circuit
WITHOUT losing any of your 110's and you get a spare full size breaker (in
case one fails, LOL) as well.
If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving
< email@example.com> wrote in message
"Many brands of breaker panels can accommodate half-sized double pole
We built our house almost 40 years ago and used some of these duplex
breakers then, they came from Sears, I think they are square D.
"the double half sized breaker would need to come in contact with both poles
Switch a couple of 110 circuits onto a duplex breaker, use the vacated space
for the 220v.
No, I'm not. <G>
It's a double-pole, SINGLE slot breaker. Similar units are available as
single pole, single slot, double breakers that provide two 115v circuits
in ONE slot.
Before others tell me what I really mean, I'll describe it section by
- is ONE space wide
- has TWO hot wire terminals
- has both poles tied together so either hot leg will trip both
- feeds from BOTH sides of the panel, via buss bars integral to the panel
- is branded GE
- will only work in certain slots in the panel
I also have identical versions without the poles tied together.
My boxes have buss bars that run from one side to the other to provide
both poles on both sides of the box. I looked last night, they're GE.
The house is a very modest spec house built in 1990, so I'm sure the box
wasn't some expensive, custom order sort of thing.
Standard breakers can (and were, in my case) be inserted into the
half-space compatible slots, but only make contact with the buss bar
service that side of the panel.
Trust me, they exist. My DC, cabinet saw, jointer run off half space
breakers every day.
What are you going to use it for ? If it's a question of start-up
current, then so long as it doesn't have a huge cast iron head, then you
should have no trouble. If you're intending to use it for typical
"amateur" use with some occasional need for the extra width, then that's
OK. Only if you're planning on smoothing down rough pitch pine with
heavy cuts because you're in a hurry is a 2hp motor really going to need
to draw that sort of current.
Personally I'd use it. But I might adjust the overload relay in the
motor starter so that _that_ was what tripped first, rather than the
fusebox breaker. It's not good practice to repeatedly trip fusebox
breakers, they don't have the wear lifetime for it.
OTOH, I'd be lost without my 3hp cabinet saw. If this feed is the best
you have to your whole workshop, then I'd certainly want to upgrade it.
My own workshop has no dedicated feed at all - fortunately I'm in the UK
where every outlet is 4hp as standard 8-)
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