If you spot evidence of woodworm in an old building;
It's completely dry so is it safe to assume the woodworm holes could have occurred at any time in the past and woodworm no longer poses a problem? (I believe they need moisture to thrive)
Or panic and treat?
R D S scribbled
Got any dust ?
We're renovating so loads, it's just been swept and vacuumed though so i'll keep an eye on it.
Ifi it is indeed dry, they are dead, or will be soon...
Thomas Prufer
Any signs of fresh sawdust if you tap the beam?
I don't think woodworm cares that much about damp. They ate my wardrobe at university happily although they ate bathroom doors even quicker.
I would be inclined to treat it locally to be sure unless there was a very good reason to believe it had already been treated. That is what we had done to our house when woodworm was identified before moving in. (eg a certificate of previous spray treatment)
There is a solvent based brushable penetrating treatment OK for small problems and a water based sprayable Permethrin? one for larger infestations. It is DIYable with care but you will need PPE.
Absent evidence of fresh dust you won't really know until next June or so when they fly if you have active ones present or not.
always treat anyway if its exposed.
to prevent reinfection.
If it is not period feetcha or listed, try and replace wormed timbers
>In message , Martin Brown writes
Cheap plastic coveralls are available for agricultural use from the chemical suppliers. It would be a surprise if they are not also found on e-bay:-)
Has it changed hands on a mortgage within say the last 50 years? If so it may well have been treated then.
Agreed. Also it is unwise to have an old holly tree too close to the house since they seem to harbour active woodworm in any dead parts.
That is overkill. A two century old 12" square oak beam even weakened by a little bit of worm is still way stronger than any modern stuff.
It is worth replacing anything that has been eaten to a stage where it might be compromised.
IIRC a traditional way of dealing with woodworm was to have a sacrificial log in the attic. I believe ash was the timber of choice as the WW had a preference for ash and would seek it out if they could 'smell' it. Every couple of years the log would be removed, burnt along with the WW, and a fresh log put in it's place.
Fascinating - I have never heard that before!
Fresh wood dust is one giveaway.
Paste paper over the ww holes. If active, the paper will become holed. Most ww infestations are historic and don't need treating.
NT
+1, and it makes sense. I suspect beech might be preferable.
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