Wiki: Wallplugs

Yet another one for your comments....

[[image:Wallplugs 175-2.jpg|400px]]

==Plugs for solid masonry== ===Standard plug=== [[image:Basic wallplug 175-2.jpg|thumb]] The standard moulded plastic wallplug is by far the most popular option. These come with recommended hole and [[Screws|screw]] sizes, and are simple to use.

Different sizes are often colour coded, but different brands don't all follow the same colour code.

===Fibre plugs=== [[image:Fibre wallplug 175-2.jpg|thumb]] Fibre plugs are straight sided compacted fibre plugs.

===Lipless plug=== [[image:Lipless wallplug 175-2.jpg|thumb]] Plugs with no lip are good when using 2 moulded plugs in a hole.

===Sticks=== [[image:Image coming.jpg|thumb]] Long sticks are no longer common, but are still available. This allows you to cut a plug of any length. They come in plastic or fibre, about a foot long.

===Sheet metal plugs=== These are made from contorted thin sheet metal, and are fire resistant. In soft masonry they have a lower pullout rating than a plastic plug.

===Metal expanding plug=== These use 2 cast halves of metal than expand when a bolt is [[Screws| screwed]] in. Not suited to use with regular wood [[screws]]. These put high forces on the masonry, so should not be used near edges.

==Plugs for hollow walls==

===Expanding plastic plug=== The cheapest type of hollow wall plug, these look similar to regular plastic plugs, but expand behind the [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]] when [[Screws|screwed]] into. Some can be used with both solid and [[Partition Wall|hollow walls]].

===Redidrive=== [[image:Redi wallplug 176-3.jpg|thumb]] Available in metal and plastic, these [[Screws|screw]] into the [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]].

===Hammer in=== [[image:Hammer in wall plugs 176-3.jpg|thumb]]

2 sheet metal legs spread when [[Screws|screw]] inserted. No hole is drilled, they're just [[Hammers|hammered]] into position, making work fast. Load rating so-so.

===Spring & gravity toggle=== [[image:Toggle wallplugs 177-3.jpg|thumb]] Both types of toggle use a metal bar behind the [[Sheet Materials| plasterboard]] to take the load. Gives a fairly good load rating for static loads. With dynamic loads, such as coathooks, these tend to gradually eat through the plasterboard until they eventually fail.

===Lightweight things=== [[image:Lightweight expanding walplugs 176-3.jpg|thumb]]

===Expanding bolt=== [[image|These wallplugs 178-3.jpg|thumb]]

==Better than hollow wall plugs== Hollow wall plug fixings are only ever as strong as the [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]]. Where greater strength is necessary:

  • fix through to solid masonry behind the plasterboard, if there is any
  • fix to an upright or nogging on [[Partition Wall|frame walls]]
  • Replace the [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]] with [[Sheet Materials#Plywood|plywood]], or fit ply to the surface
  • Fix to floor instead

==Misnomers== Rawlplug is a well known brand of wallplug. 'Raw plug' is often heard too.

==Methods== The standard method is to drill the hole size recommended, blow dust from the hole, insert the plug full depth, and use a [[Screws|screw]] of the thickness recommended. Of course this isn't the only option.

===Other screw sizes=== Where grip is likely to be poor, a thicker than recommended [[Screws| screw]] can increase compression on the plug and thus grip.

A thinner than recommneded [[Screws|screw]] can be used to ease driving where the recommended size is too tight.

===Reduced hole size=== Soft masonry tends to produce a hoole bigger than the drill bit. A drill bit half a mm smaller helps keep things tight.

===2 plugs=== For a stronger fixing, a deep hole & 2 plugs are used. This is especially useful in soft masonry, and where the surface layer is weak, eg crumbly plaster.

===Packing=== Uneven or oversize holes will need packing to make them work. This is easiest done with matchsticks, but split wallplugs are also good.

==Troubles== ===It just keeps turning=== If a wallplug just turns instead of tightening, the following sometimes work:

  • Blow dust out and reinsert plug
  • Use a bigger plug that fits tighter
  • Fill hole with filler, and when set re-drill
  • Pack something round the plug before reinserting
  • [[Hammers|Hammer]] matchsticks into all available gaps. Matchsticks leave a lot of gaps so you need to pack every avaailable gap. Insert [[Screws|screw]], remove it again and hammer more matchsticsk in. Now you'll get a good strong bite.
  • Insert resin glue into hole, refit plug, let set.

===Hole is oversize or misshapen== Either:

  • Drill deeper and use 2 plugs to get a deep fixing.
  • Blow all debris out of hole, fill with interior filler, try again tomorrow.
  • Use resin, with or without plug

===Hole keeps crumbling=== Blow all debris out of hole, fill with interior filler, try again tomorrow.

===Plug & screw pulls out=== If the whole fixing pulls out after the [[Screws|screw]] is in, then the plug & screw are too small for the hole.

  • Pack the plug
  • Use a much thicker screw
  • Use a thicker plug if it'll fit
  • fill the hole and retry once set
  • Use resin

===Screw jams=== [[Screws|Screw]] too thick for plug & hole. Use a thinner screw, or possibly a thinner plug or slightly increased hole size.

===Hollow wall plug pulled out=== That's life, [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]] isn't very strong. Some hollow plugs grip more area of plasterboard than others, but if these aren't tough enough you'll need to fix to something stronger than plasterboard. That could be

  • solid masonry behind a gap behind the plasterboard
  • [[Partition Wall|wood or metal frame]]
  • [[Sheet Materials#Plywood|sheet ply]] on the wall
  • fix to the floor
  • in extremis build a wood frame fixed to floor & ceiling, and fix to that.
  • or use a free standing appliance instead

==When plugs don't work== There are a couple of wall materials where plugs won't work no matter what. These include earth & straw walls. In these cases another fixing method altogether is needed, normally one where the load is supported by the floor instead of the wall.

In some cases using a timber frame fixed to floor and ceiling is about the only safe option. This is true for example of a large screen TV mounted to the wall.

==Plug Material== Plastic is most popular and the cheapest. Plastics are vulnerable to heat, and in a fire all plastic plugged fixings can be exected to collapse. Plastics aren't affteced by water, making them good for outdoor use.

Nylon plugs are tougher than lower cost plastic, and support a greater load.

Metal plugs have much better fire resistance, but are vulnerable to rust outdoors. They give a weaker fixing than plastic in soft masonry, and a stronger fixing than plastic in high strength masonry.

Wood plugs have better fire resistance than plastic. They're vulnerable to [[Wood Rot|rot]] if they get wet, so not good for outdoor use.

Fibre plugs are tougher than plastic

==Wallplug substitutes== ===Commercial=== Dowel

===Ad hoc=== Bit of wood split off. [[Hammers|Hammer]] more slivers of wood into any gaps.

Matchsticks - [[Hammers|hammer]] in & snap off. Pack them tight, [[Screws|screw]] in, remove screw and repack.

Rolled paper - not a great performer but can work.

Card - folded card works if packed well enough.

Bits of plastic - another poor performer but can work if packed tight enough, ie they need to be [[Hammers|hammered]] in.

==Alternatives==

  • Frame fixings
  • [[Screws|Masonry screw]]
  • [[Nails|Masonry nail]]
  • Plastic aerated concrete nail
  • [[Adhesive|Resin]] fixing - higher load rating than any plug type
  • Wedge (remove some mortar from between bricks,
  • [[Hammers|hammer]] in wooden wedge)
  • In extremis, fix to floor or ceiling instead.

==See Also==

  • [[Special:Allpages|Wiki Contents]]
  • [[Special:Categories|Wiki Subject Categories]]

[[Category:Fixings]]

NT

Reply to
meow2222
Loading thread data ...

Another article for your comments....

[[image:Wallplugs 175-2.jpg|400px]]

==Plugs for solid masonry== ===Standard plug=== [[image:Basic wallplug 175-2.jpg|thumb]] The standard moulded plastic wallplug is by far the most popular option. These come with recommended hole and [[Screws|screw]] sizes, and are simple to use.

Different sizes are often colour coded, but different brands don't all follow the same colour code.

===Fibre plugs=== [[image:Fibre wallplug 175-2.jpg|thumb]] Fibre plugs are straight sided compacted fibre plugs.

===Lipless plug=== [[image:Lipless wallplug 175-2.jpg|thumb]] Plugs with no lip are good when using 2 moulded plugs in a hole.

===Sticks=== [[image:Image coming.jpg|thumb]] Long sticks are no longer common, but are still available. This allows you to cut a plug of any length. They come in plastic or fibre, about a foot long.

===Sheet metal plugs=== These are made from contorted thin sheet metal, and are fire resistant. In soft masonry they have a lower pullout rating than a plastic plug.

===Metal expanding plug=== These use 2 cast halves of metal than expand when a bolt is [[Screws| screwed]] in. Not suited to use with regular wood [[screws]]. These put high forces on the masonry, so should not be used near edges.

==Plugs for hollow walls==

===Expanding plastic plug=== The cheapest type of hollow wall plug, these look similar to regular plastic plugs, but expand behind the [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]] when [[Screws|screwed]] into. Some can be used with both solid and [[Partition Wall|hollow walls]].

===Redidrive=== [[image:Redi wallplug 176-3.jpg|thumb]] Available in metal and plastic, these [[Screws|screw]] into the [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]].

===Hammer in=== [[image:Hammer in wall plugs 176-3.jpg|thumb]]

2 sheet metal legs spread when [[Screws|screw]] inserted. No hole is drilled, they're just [[Hammers|hammered]] into position, making work fast. Load rating so-so.

===Spring & gravity toggle=== [[image:Toggle wallplugs 177-3.jpg|thumb]] Both types of toggle use a metal bar behind the [[Sheet Materials| plasterboard]] to take the load. Gives a fairly good load rating for static loads. With dynamic loads, such as coathooks, these tend to gradually eat through the plasterboard until they eventually fail.

===Lightweight things=== [[image:Lightweight expanding walplugs 176-3.jpg|thumb]]

===Expanding bolt=== [[image|These wallplugs 178-3.jpg|thumb]]

==Better than hollow wall plugs== Hollow wall plug fixings are only ever as strong as the [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]]. Where greater strength is necessary:

  • fix through to solid masonry behind the plasterboard, if there is any
  • fix to an upright or nogging on [[Partition Wall|frame walls]]
  • Replace the [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]] with [[Sheet Materials#Plywood|plywood]], or fit ply to the surface
  • Fix to floor instead

==Misnomers== Rawlplug is a well known brand of wallplug. 'Raw plug' is often heard too.

==Methods== The standard method is to drill the hole size recommended, blow dust from the hole, insert the plug full depth, and use a [[Screws|screw]] of the thickness recommended. Of course this isn't the only option.

===Other screw sizes=== Where grip is likely to be poor, a thicker than recommended [[Screws| screw]] can increase compression on the plug and thus grip.

A thinner than recommneded [[Screws|screw]] can be used to ease driving where the recommended size is too tight.

===Reduced hole size=== Soft masonry tends to produce a hoole bigger than the drill bit. A drill bit half a mm smaller helps keep things tight.

===2 plugs=== For a stronger fixing, a deep hole & 2 plugs are used. This is especially useful in soft masonry, and where the surface layer is weak, eg crumbly plaster.

===Packing=== Uneven or oversize holes will need packing to make them work. This is easiest done with matchsticks, but split wallplugs are also good.

==Troubles== ===It just keeps turning=== If a wallplug just turns instead of tightening, the following sometimes work:

  • Blow dust out and reinsert plug
  • Use a bigger plug that fits tighter
  • Fill hole with filler, and when set re-drill
  • Pack something round the plug before reinserting
  • [[Hammers|Hammer]] matchsticks into all available gaps. Matchsticks leave a lot of gaps so you need to pack every avaailable gap. Insert [[Screws|screw]], remove it again and hammer more matchsticsk in. Now you'll get a good strong bite.
  • Insert resin glue into hole, refit plug, let set.

===Hole is oversize or misshapen== Either:

  • Drill deeper and use 2 plugs to get a deep fixing.
  • Blow all debris out of hole, fill with interior filler, try again tomorrow.
  • Use resin, with or without plug

===Hole keeps crumbling=== Blow all debris out of hole, fill with interior filler, try again tomorrow.

===Plug & screw pulls out=== If the whole fixing pulls out after the [[Screws|screw]] is in, then the plug & screw are too small for the hole.

  • Pack the plug
  • Use a much thicker screw
  • Use a thicker plug if it'll fit
  • fill the hole and retry once set
  • Use resin

===Screw jams=== [[Screws|Screw]] too thick for plug & hole. Use a thinner screw, or possibly a thinner plug or slightly increased hole size.

===Hollow wall plug pulled out=== That's life, [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]] isn't very strong. Some hollow plugs grip more area of plasterboard than others, but if these aren't tough enough you'll need to fix to something stronger than plasterboard. That could be

  • solid masonry behind a gap behind the plasterboard
  • [[Partition Wall|wood or metal frame]]
  • [[Sheet Materials#Plywood|sheet ply]] on the wall
  • fix to the floor
  • in extremis build a wood frame fixed to floor & ceiling, and fix to that.
  • or use a free standing appliance instead

==When plugs don't work== There are a couple of wall materials where plugs won't work no matter what. These include earth & straw walls. In these cases another fixing method altogether is needed, normally one where the load is supported by the floor instead of the wall.

In some cases using a timber frame fixed to floor and ceiling is about the only safe option. This is true for example of a large screen TV mounted to the wall.

==Plug Material== Plastic is most popular and the cheapest. Plastics are vulnerable to heat, and in a fire all plastic plugged fixings can be exected to collapse. Plastics aren't affteced by water, making them good for outdoor use.

Nylon plugs are tougher than lower cost plastic, and support a greater load.

Metal plugs have much better fire resistance, but are vulnerable to rust outdoors. They give a weaker fixing than plastic in soft masonry, and a stronger fixing than plastic in high strength masonry.

Wood plugs have better fire resistance than plastic. They're vulnerable to [[Wood Rot|rot]] if they get wet, so not good for outdoor use.

Fibre plugs are tougher than plastic

==Wallplug substitutes== ===Commercial=== Dowel

===Ad hoc=== Bit of wood split off. [[Hammers|Hammer]] more slivers of wood into any gaps.

Matchsticks - [[Hammers|hammer]] in & snap off. Pack them tight, [[Screws|screw]] in, remove screw and repack.

Rolled paper - not a great performer but can work.

Card - folded card works if packed well enough.

Bits of plastic - another poor performer but can work if packed tight enough, ie they need to be [[Hammers|hammered]] in.

==Alternatives==

  • Frame fixings
  • [[Screws|Masonry screw]]
  • [[Nails|Masonry nail]]
  • Plastic aerated concrete nail
  • [[Adhesive|Resin]] fixing - higher load rating than any plug type
  • Wedge (remove some mortar from between bricks,
  • [[Hammers|hammer]] in wooden wedge)
  • In extremis, fix to floor or ceiling instead.

==See Also==

  • [[Special:Allpages|Wiki Contents]]
  • [[Special:Categories|Wiki Subject Categories]]

[[Category:Fixings]]

NT

Reply to
meow2222

Suggest:

If putting up a lightweight thing on a very crumbly wall, I usually paint PVA onto the damaged part of the wall and down the hole and, if feasible, let it dry, before even inserting the plug.

When using matchsticks, I usually coat with PVA. Sometimes leave that to dry before inserting screw. Especially sensible if the screw is likely to be removed/reinserted in the future. Might be obvious, but remove heads...

Polyurethane is easy to use, seems to work well and is more likely to be lying around than 'resin'. See my post in previous thread.

Always use zinc plated (or better, e.g. tropicalised) screws. Others will rust in most situations - in time.

Alternatives perhaps should include adhesives for sticking something directly to the wall and these might include foam pads and 3M command products.

Reply to
Rod

Useful article. For what its worth I have sometimes found that the old fashioned woodscrew was more successful as it had more of a tapered form to force open the wallplug - whereas a modern type of screw tends to self tap a thread into the plug and as the root diameter is fairly parallel it does not increase the tightness of the plug as it goes further into it (if you see what I mean).

Reply to
John

Re "Uneven or oversize holes"

After all these years I suppose it is not worth adding something along the lines of "And if you find any Rawlplastic in the back of a cupboard, cherish it. It is no longer sold (because it contains asbestos). But it was wonderful stuff as it dealt with oversize holes, holes where the drill had wandered, .........."

More seriously, do the gurus here know a current equivalent (and car body filler ain't as you need to drill it)?

Reply to
neverwas

Plug & repair:

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Reply to
Andy Wade

ISTR that later versions of Rawlplastic/Philplug were (allegedly) asbestos-free.

Reply to
Frank Erskine

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I'll try some (if only because a 15-20 minutes break is always welcome). But I hope I'll not really need to "Ensure all surfaces are clean and free from grease and dust". I liked the way rawlplastic coped with dust - perhaps because it went in wet.

Reply to
neverwas

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Embrace the car body filler concept. You know it makes sense :-)

Reply to
stuart noble

Fischer Wet N Fix.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Are you sure they exist anymore? Searching the SF site for fibre plugs reveals nothing.

Don't understand that at all. Lip less plugs are usefull in tiles though.

So rare (& useless) that its not worth clouding the wiki.

????? WTF are these? Never seen them or heard of them.

Anchor, not plug if I read your description properly. What about the Multi Monte? Far superior to any sleeve anchor.

What about hammer fixings & frame fixers?

The universal plug deserves much more coverage.

WTF are these? Again SF search reveals nothing.

How about the hollow wall anchor?

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> ===Lightweight things===

Hole.

What about Fischer Wet N Fix?

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

People have them in their toolboxes, and I thought I'd seen them on sale too, cant be sure though.

If you use lipped plugs when putting 2 in a hole, the deeper one often jams.

Seems like a practical way to do deep holes to me.

will find another name for them soon, but theyre made of sheet metal twisted about.

right

=A0What about the Multi

brand of masonry screw, now mentioned.

done

yes - done

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> =3D=3D=3DSpring & gravity toggle=3D=3D=3D

filler discs already there, have added the brand name

cheers - I reckon theres still a fair bit more to add

NT

Reply to
meow2222

formatting link

You dont need to drill CBF if you put the screws in just before its gone off..or poke a bit of rod down it at the same time.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

You dont realise what a complicated subject it is until you try to write it all down.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

My sister visited a company that made moulds for wall plugs (and many other products). Her description of the complexity defied belief - all sorts of machining, spark erosion, acid undercuts (or whatever they are called) to get the complex shapes. I wished that I had been the one to make the visit...

Reply to
Rod

I know. It's always annoying when girls get to go on things like that. Bet she had a train set as a child :-) My wife did.

Reply to
Andy Hall

The Medway Handyman coughed up some electrons that declared:

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have bought them from B&Q but that was a few years ago. There are some situations that I prefer them over plastic. For example, it is possible to get a very light but firm fixing in 13m plasterboard using fibre plugs, better than I had managed with plastic.

This is useful if you are putting something not too heavy on dot'n'dab PB with a significant air gap behind the PB and sufficiently long screws to reach the brick/blockwork are just too big for the job. Don't hang yer kitchen cabinets like this!!!

Cheers

Tim

Reply to
Tim S

Surely the key requirement of a wallplug is for it to expand as the screw is driven in - and not just to stay in the hole. On this basis CBF with a hole poked in may not be ideal - unless it was to crack open and therefore wedge itself tightly into the hole. Likewise - parallel (self tapping type) screws are not as effective as the old (No8 / No10) tapered woodscrews.

In all cases the quality of the hole is so important - I watched someone who waggled the drill as he removed it. I asked him why and he said he didn't know but he always did it - I persuaded him to keep the drill in better alignment and he immediately saw an improvement in his fixings.

Reply to
John

Wet N Fix is just a pad impregnated with gypsum that is wetted and sets quickly.

I've found that the solution of using injection resin (or UWCBF if you must) into the hole and followed by the plug - a chunky one with knobbly sides is best - works very well in all kinds of grotty materials.

Reply to
Andy Hall

Understand exactly what you say. But at least some plugs are clearly designed from the ground up to work with parallel threads. E.g. they have a 'lump' at the far end which is drawn towards the collar as you tighten - and that is what makes the plug splay out and work. I suspect this more likely to be true and work a) with recent designs; b) if decent makes; c) using sensible hole, screw and plug combination.

WRT the waggle. I can't help feeling that for many holes, drilled by many people, in many walls, it is best to drill undersize and then ream out to final size. It is much easier to keep the drill straight and true when it is only doing a little work. But I am equally sure that is not a universally appropriate technique.

Reply to
Rod

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