where can I get the right converter to plug a 300W 120V US fan heater into a UK socket?

What you need is a step down transformer, not a step up. Obviously, as you have discovered, a new fan heater is far cheaper.

No, it's a step down from 240v to 120v.

o a UK socket.

as it gives no leeway.. I think the convert should support e.g. 400W or 50

here's no risk then as the heater is rated 300W. So if it goes to 380W i'll be ok.

Buying a UK heater is the only sensible option.

Option 1. Buy a new fan heater.

Option 2

Complete with dodgy 13A plug (unfused and too small)

Do you really mean 300 watt, that's not much of a heater!

Standard US two pin plug.

You want a step *down* transformer, not a step-up. You don't want anything that talks about being an inverter.

Search for 110v transformer and you'll find loads around the £50 mark from UK suppliers (though they're probably all originally from China).

Machine Mart probably sell them, also CPC.

Throw it away and buy a UK one.

It also costs about 2x more than a thermostatic 2kW UK mains fan heater!

You can always rely on Maplin for bad advice. Step down!

You may also find that US stuff is under engineered dependent on 60Hz mains frequency and the motor coils may saturate on 50Hz UK mains - which means you will get a bit more heat out until it catches fire.

A certain brand of old dreadful US brand mains electric razor (promoted at Xmas) depends on a 60Hz mechanical resonance and is crap in the UK.

Scrap the useless 300W US toy and get a decent fan heater. Nothing else makes sense economically or functionally.

Well you can think what you like.

The heater is te main draw, and that wint have mnuch switch in surge

No. Step down

Or buy a new heater (cheaper)

You MIGHT just be able to use a rather large 400V AC capacitor. 32uF might work to drop the voltage.

A boss where I worked brought a clock radio back from the US - this was the early 1970s when they were unheard of here - and obtained an autotransformer to drive it. How I laughed (silently) when he reported that it lost four hours a day!

The unfused plug on that would make me very wary of the electrical safety of the whole device. AKA ?junk from China?.

Tim

Look for a 'site transformer', often used on building sites to run 110v tools from 240v mains. You can often pick these up for cheap in variable cosmetic condition from local ebay/gumtree/etc - they're heavy so it's cheaper than posting.

You'll need to make an adaptor from the US plug to the bright yellow BS4343 site connectors, or rewire the plug.

Watch for the continuous rating - often the nameplate rating is only intended for short periods when running power tools.

Theo

o a UK socket.

as it gives no leeway.. I think the convert should support e.g. 400W or 50

here's no risk then as the heater is rated 300W. So if it goes to 380W i'll be ok.

If your 300W figure is correct, then I can only conclude this is some sort of specialist device which can not be replaced easily & cheaply. If the hea t output is unswitched, a series capacitor (of the right values) would drop V to 120v. That can also be used if it's switched AND what's left connecte d can handle 240v safely.

If that doesn't apply you'll need a step down autotransformer that outputs

If your 300W figure is wrong, disregard the above.

NT

Could it be that the OP means 3000W? (Seems unlikely on 110V mains, but there you go.)

On the heater, or on the ebay Step Down / Up Transformer 230V-110V AC UK-U S Voltage Converter 200W 1000W UK?

I guess the heater plug is the one with no fuse. So will the transformer wh ich I guess is fused, make it safe or safer?

The heater is

I guess it's not technically a fan, it's an infra red heater that is design ed to look a bit like a fan. I don't think it has any fan on there.

Thanks

What's wrong with buying a new heater that works the same way and costs £12?

Have you looked on Ebay, etc for a EU version of a infra red heater? That would also conform to EU/UK safety regs. Something made for the US market with its lower voltage may well not.

None at all if it's nichrome wire - actually slightly the opposite.