I've been using for some years now a blockboard kitchen table from Ikea. :-)
I had two 19" CRT's at the time so needed something sturdy. It fit the gap with a few cm's to spare and I've been quite happy with it, never stained or varnished it just a wipe down with the damp cloth every now and again. The mouse areas are now smooth as glass, lol.
Mark S.
I have done exactly the same. I used 3/4inch ish MDF 2 pieces of 8be4 I used a piece of string and a pen to scribe a nice semi circular bay for me and one for the other half. I sanded the edges down with a sander to get a nice smooth edge. it looks great!
Steve
Ps I used battening all the way around the wall to support it and a 'leg' made from a left over piece of mdf curved nicely to keep in theme with the curves. Its rock solid and I have been using it for the past 4 years day in day out. I used a quick drying acrylic gloss (more a semisheen) in a grass green and did the walls in a pale green. Quite hard wearing, it still does not need a recoat after all this time.
Steve
Would you mind posting the right way up and trimming to context please?
Despite all that, he might have a workable solution. If I can get over the painted surface then this will be the easiest (and most cost effective) solution.
Thanks, RPM, I might post the final results over the new year.
Your very welcome!
Steve
Anyone going to claim they've got the cojones to carve up the £993
3m length of Wenge? You wouldn't want much waste at that price ...Sweaty moments. I carved a 400 ukp piece of oak board to make a worktop round a Belfast sink with a 2000W router. Jigs, dry runs - didn't make any difference. I still collapsed with nervous exhaustion after I'd made the cut. Nearest and dearest then suggested I might like to cut sloping drainage channels into the sink. Words similar to 'fat chance!'
Peter Scott
Hmmm, pondering how you'd do that.... presumably a jig to fit on top of the draining area, and sand one edge slightly to create the gradient?
I saw something about that in a woodworking magazine recently. It is a jig which tapers so the router cuts deeper as it moves along - but not by much.
Probably take longer to make the jig than do the job.
Dave
A piece of MDF with a slot cut to take a router with guide bush and then a piece of tapered wood attached on each side. Clamp to draining board and make the cuts.
It would be hard to get the pieces accurate and repeatable enough to get both sides precisely the same by sanding.
A way to do that would be on a table saw using a taper jig against the fence. e.g. Axminster part number 7726
That's almost always the case with jigs. Generally the purpose is either to do something that needs to be done on a repeat basis, or to get an accurate result that can't be done in another way.
I think that Screwfix do a jig, but obviously that's flat. I imagine that you prop up the end that is away from the sink and clamp it. I reckon this job must be about third on the list of 'diy that I would prefer not to do'. Which of course begs the question of what the first two are. Hmmm...
Oh yes. Digging a trench for an underground power cable and balancing on a roof ladder to refit the chimney cowl that came loose when I set fire to kerosine-soaked rags in the wood-burner. Talk about reheat!
Peter Scott
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