Wall papering

Revamping the living and dining room with lining paper, after which im going to emulsion, take a look at this photo,

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is the best place to put the joint? bearing in mind im continuing on into the next room,the lining paper is coming from the right the old beige paper on transit is being removed.

Would it be best to have the joint halfway across the transit upright, or should I trim it on this nearest corner and use a little filler to make the corner good. Im just thinking the chances of the joints being vertical on the transit upright are very slim.

Reply to
richard3009651
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Whats a transit upright?

Go to the corner of the through lounge opening and then follow round at the same corner with a full piece.

Reply to
George

Paper to the external corner to the left or right? as for a transit upright goodness knows

Reply to
richard3009651

I'd line the opening with wood or mdf and put architrave both sides to tie it into the skirting i.e treat it as a doorway. The corners will be vulnerable otherwise and it'll be a bitch of a job to paper neatly. It wouldn't look right either IMO.

Reply to
stuart noble

It's possible to paper perfectly with time and care, although the mdf route is tempting

Reply to
richard3009651

I think you'll find there are practical and aesthetic reasons why it's usually done that way

Reply to
stuart noble

I'm planning to go in the opposite direction by removing a door from its frame, then tidying up the opening by taking off the strips of timber which form the rebate.

The two rooms will not be glossed in the same colour, but I have yet to decide at what point to make the transition. Any thoughts?

Chris

Reply to
Chris J Dixon

Yep,done that meself on the through lounge sides when I plastered the walls. Put some fancy 1/2" beading on the sides and then wallpapered the inset of the beading with the same wallpaper on the wall. Really enhanced the opening as opposed to just wallpaper.

Reply to
George

You can't really make the transition between two surfaces without introducing a third element (hence the use of mouldings and trims). In your case you already have that, so I'd just paint it a different colour, or white.

Reply to
stuart noble

What I have seen done (and even done myself to a limited extent) is to overlap the paper at a convenient point. Wait for the paste to dry thoroughly. Then sand lightly with fine abrasive until the joint/overlap is not visible (well - would not be visible when overpainted).

To do this successfully you must use a fairly or very heavyweight lining paper. I usually use starch paste (e.g. LAP) - not sure if this is significant.

Reply to
Rod

easier to run a sharp knife down the center of the overlap leaving a joint

Reply to
richard3009651

Anyone worth their salt in wallpaper hanging wouldn't do any overlapping though. ;-)

I must have cases and cases of salt out the back?

Reply to
George

Difference between wallpapering and hanging lining paper. :-)

No - I wouldn't overlap a patterned wallpaper!! Don't you hate the half-a-rose seen so often in badly decorated rooms?

Reply to
Rod

joint/overlap

As my BIL used to say...know one will see it behind the curtains. His idea of giving the painted skirting some texture was to forget the hairs,bits of dirt just slap it on the skirting.

Reply to
George

Lightweight paper is more forgiving if you don't have perfect walls.

So they say. Never quite worked for me

Reply to
stuart noble

But the old technique *was* to overlap the patterned paper so the patterns are on top of each other, then cut through the two with a sharp knife leaving the patterns matching. I have some flowery wallpaper in my hallway from the 1940s I guess, obviously applied by a pro. There is a corner which is rounded off, then goes into a sharp corner for the skirtings and picture rail. Somehow, over this entire area, the flowers line up. Apparently a combination of cleverly cut flaps and slight stretching of the paper is used to acheive this. Very impressive though. Anyone know the magic involved ? Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

I used a sharp roller cutter, like a pizza wheel. It is much less likely to rip the paper. With a knife it needs to be almost as sharp as a razor blade. In fact best thing is to use one and throw it away. Any know if you can you still get those one-sides razor blades ? Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

Every joint in lining paper can be concealed prior to painting, decorators caulk makes internal corners perfect just about viewable in my photo , fine sandable polyfiller for any gaps in joints on flat surfaces or external corners if done in two stages and sanded., no joints should or need to overlap with lining paper.

Reply to
richard3009651

Never got on with one of those wheels just didnt seem to perform for me, the idea seems good, lining paper is the hardeset of all papers to cut with a knife tears very easily, I find if you break a new blade off after every couple of cuts and keeping a close eye on the cut you can alter the pressure to avoid problems. even a perfect cut and be blended with decorators caulk though

Reply to
richard3009651

Have you seen one o those wide blade polyfilla tools? They are about 6" to 8" they have a wooden handle,get a wall mounted knife sharpener of the type that you pull the knife downwards between its sharpening jaws and get the blade above and sharpen it with the wall mounted sharpener,sharpen it till it has a razor edge. Draw a pencil line down the lining paper and put the blade on the line at the top and hit it on the handle with your hand once or twice and reapeat all the way down the line,you might have to keep the blade sharpend after each line though?

Reply to
George

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