What's good for treating western red cedar?
I know it lasts well, but for the external surfaces I'd like to help it along a bit. I'd prefer something that sinks in and leaves the surface looking like wood, rather than paint or varnish.
The inner surfaces of the windowframes I want to leave as bare cedar for the smell and the look.
Linseed oil.
On exterior hardwoods I've been using Sikkens HLS/Sikkens Filter 7. It's an expensive product, but I've been very impressed with it. Not one you'll find in the sheds, specialist suppliers or
I'm currently trying out their Novatech/Novatop products (a low VOC alternative to their traditional products) - and whilst good, it's not quite so easy to produce good finishes.
I'd apply a few coats of used chip frying oil. I know there are fancier preparations but none of them have the same distinctive (and short lived) aroma.
Seconded. Worth having a look through the archives for some info:
cheers, Pete.
The message from Pete C contains these words:
Sounds bood but it reckons it's semi-gloss - which I didn't really want. I'm looking more for something like linseed oil - but wondered if there were anything more effective that looks similar.
The best (and most expensive) beehives are made with western red cedar. They are not treated in ANY way. They are exposed to all weathers, rain, wind, snow, sun (especially sun), ice, insects trying to attack them, woodpeckers, large animals rubbing against them, mice nibbling them, beekeepers bashing them with tools and all the rest.
I gave up beekeeping three years ago, I now use some of the boxes to grow potatoes, which means that as well as the above they are filled with soil and compost with its attendant damp (or wet) and wildlife.
Some of the boxes I'm using were bought second hand nearly thirty years ago, I had bees in them for twenty five years. They are the western red cedar ones. Those which Spouse made from other timbers have had to be repaired, patched, burned even.
The exception was that I once painted a western red cedar hive with cuprinol but the surface of the wood deteriorated, it became powdery and flaked off. It's still fine because the stuff didn't penetrate deep into the timber but it was a waste of time. This is a known phenomenon, I was warned about it but thought I knew better.
Western red cedar doesn't need any treatment. It turns to a lovely silvery-grey colour and looks beautiful. The only drawback is its cost.
Mary
Air.
Don't.
Nothing works great.
Just like the outer surfaces then.
The message from "Mary Fisher" contains these words:
I just took back what was supposed to be the window sill on account of it having woodworm!
In that case I doubt that it was genuine western red cedar!
There are rogues in the timber industry as well as in every other, I suspect.
Mary
Depends on the surface, it only comes out semi-gloss on a smooth planed surface. If the surface is a bit rough it should come out more matt:
AFAIK it weathers to a matt finish anyway. Might be worth giving them a call to see what they say.
AIUI all oils do very little to block UV and so don't stop weathering, especially if exposed to the sun. A post on rec.woodworking might get some good info.
cheers, Pete.
The message from "Mary Fisher" contains these words:
Certainly looked and smelt and felt like it.
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