toilet stud wall according to regs.

Well, I have to spec a new downstairs toilet stud wall for building regs. This is my first "controlled" stud wall ;-) Its going onto an ammended full plans, which must pass. I want to keep the wall thickness to a minimum. So ... From part E, I need 75mm timber stud, plasterboard at 10kg/m2 (12.5 echeck board or somesuch), and suspended mineral wool inside at 10kg/ m2, at least 25mm thick and suspended. Whats the deal with "suspended" ? Do I get out the sewing machine ? Can I use more mineral wool and standard 12.5mm PB ? Any other requirements for a toilet room wall. Any special requirements for the door ? (must let in air for the fan, so whats the point in the super wall and a leaky door) Thanks, Simon.
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I reckon it pays to put lots of nogs in the wall so you can hang the toilet roll holder, towel rail etc exactly where they are needed. And lots of nogs where the cistern is to be attached. If the damn thing doesn't flush properly you may have to raise it up the wall until it does.
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Matty F wrote:

Actually, if its a small toilet, save yourself some trouble by plating it in MDF and THEN plasterboard (or if tiling, forget plasterboard entirely)
Takes screws very well does MDF. The ononly problem is it shrinks a bit and any MDF to MDF joins need to be large-scale and caulked to avoid cracks appearing. It paints with emulsion very very well too.
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wrote:

Anyone know how you "suspend" mineral wool in a stud wall ? Simon.
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sm snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Chicken wire perhaps?
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John.

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But has anyone done it ? John, you did some "controlled" stud work in your loft I presume ? Was it before the current regs ? Simon.
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sm snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

it was in '04 - '05 - not sure what regs have changed wrt stud walls though (some of the other loft fire precaution stuff has changed since).
I used rigid PIR foam with cork on one side (about 10mm) and bitumen foil on the other, in the stud walls. The intention being to control the noise transmission a bit. I don't recall actually discussing it with the BCO though. The case where I did need "suspension" was for the rockwool under the floor - this was to enhance the fire protection of the first floor ceiling.
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John.

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On Fri, 29 May 2009 05:15:40 -0700 (PDT), a certain chimpanzee,
produced:

Why 'must' your plan pass? It doesn't seem to bother 99% of people who put applications in. Of the other 1%, 99% of those don't work to the plan anyway. As I've said before, the plans are a means to an end, and so long as you're willing to work with your BCO to make sure the work on site complies, the plans don't have to be spot on. Sometimes the more information you put on it, the more there is that needs to be corrected.
Where is this wall? If it's between the toilet and another room, then, yes it should be insulated. If it's between the toilet and a non-habitable space such as the hall, has a door in the wall, or is an en-suite, then the wall doesn't need sound insulation.
Th point about 'suspending' insulation between the studs is so that any non-rigid insulation won't just fall to the bottom. If you fully fill the space, or better still, use a rigid mineral-fibre batt, then this won't be a problem.
Have a look at plasterboard & insulation manufacturers' websites. They usually have more designs & solutions that will meet your needs better than the generic AD E solutions.
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Hugo Nebula
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I agree, but it speeds things up if the plans pass surely. First time round, I got a certificate only after making a few revisions. The rejection was for reasons including some missing information - they wanted the details ! I'm glad I did the main work as full plans - once agreed you can get on with the work without waiting for the BCO who will come "sometime" during the day. Seems from my experience domestic jobs are always at the end of the day so why can't they just agree to a PM visit - I have a full time job after all. Now I've added the toilet to the plans as a revision since a separate building notice would cost more !

After reading the approved doc, it seemed that fully filling was not an option, so it had to be suspended to avoid it collapsing or touching the sides. Given the choice I would pack in the mineral wool tightly. May in theory (and in fact) conduct more sound across, but it also makes the wall appear more robust when tapped etc. It is a toilet. One wall is onto the hall and has a door in it. The other short 1 metre long wall will form part of the kitchen wall. I hadn't noticed the bit about the door.

Sometimes I think the regs are overstepping their central purpose of ensuring safe buildings.
Cheers, Simon.
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sm snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Can't see why on a stud wall. Full fill on an external cavity wall is usually not done - but an internal stud is frequently full filled.
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John.

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