Tips for using reclaimed solid wood flooring??

It's major decision time, guys and dolls, and I need a bit of advice here. I have a 3 bed flat, two largish rooms and two tiny, small hall, small kitchen, small bathroom. I've been donated some maple reclaimed flooring - probably do one room and a bit more, so starting with reception/living room. I plan to leave the existing wooden floor which is under carpets right now, and consists of 6 inch pine planks, unfinished with holes between the planks (?original shrinkage). I don't intend to use that because I want some soundproofing and anyway it's pretty basic looking.
Questions: a) I'd like a layer of soundproofing - I'm a musician and on 2nd floor. Don't plan on anything very noisy like acoustic piano, but use electric keyboard (can use control volume). So what soundproofing to use - most damping for least height preferred - can you suggest types and suppliers pref. in W.London area.
b) This is going to add height, so to keep all surfaces in the flat the same I'll have to add height right through - maybe stone floors in bathroom etc. Anybody forsee problems with this?
c) I have a nice chap to fit it - jobbing handyman who already fitted the rest of the reclaimed flooring at a mate's place, so he knows the problems. There's original glue on the flooring so some of the tongues and grooves won't fit, others don't go right in. He cleaned up as best he could in laying it, and where the wood didn't go right in he planed off the tongues, or if the two surfaces didn't come flush he filled in with a mixture of PVC and sawdust. I saw his floor, and though not perfect, it looked pretty good. Question - will anything clean up the tongues and grooves fairly quickly, e.g. a router used on either the tongues or the grooves or both?
d) In my mate's place he nailed the flooring onto the old beams(joists), having taken up the old floor. In my place he'd be nailing through the soundproofing layer into the pine floor - do you foresee any problems with the nails holding, or the maple planks moving?
e) Using nails doesn't make it a floating floor - what am I going to lose from the soundproofing angle - a lot or a little?
Have to give the fitter a date to start, and want some information on all the above, so all help very, very welcome. Thanks in advance. Andy
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Eusebius wrote:

Youve got options, one of which is to remove the existing floor first. This would mean no change of height plus a lot of wood flooring you can relay without gaps. Old pine flooring usually cleans up nicely.
If doing that you'd put mesh down before the wood, plus rockwool between the joists on the mesh so the boards compress it to some extent.
This means you've got most of the wood you need already, the batch of maple would probably be all you need, and no door choping etc
NT
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Hmm - it's a thought - use the existing flooring. what I'm afraid of is sound transmission downstairs. I have no problem right now with neighbours, but I have two layers of underlay and wall to wall carpets. This would get dramatically worse. What sound deadening material could I put between the joists and the flooring? It ain't going to be a floating floor, because it isn't tongued and grooved.
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Eusebius wrote:

It'll be like having the carpet on the other side, soundproofing effect roughly similar to now. Do you want something other than rockwool for some reason?
NT
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I was reading a thread yesterday( cannot find it now) but the suggestion for that problem ...(to do with neighbours hearing the toilet being used ...sound of plop plopsetc ) was to suspend chicken wire mesh between the joists and then lay Rockwool on top so that the boards compressed it ..Job done ..
Stuart
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On 10 Sep 2006 02:30:01 -0700, Eusebius wrote:

My gut feeling is a lot as you are fairly effectively coupling the two floors together. Also I suspect that over time the nail heads will "rise up" through the Maple boards as the sound profing layer between collapses due to the weight and wear.
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Cheers snipped-for-privacy@howhill.com
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