Tiling ?

Im looking at tiling my bathroom this weekend any good tips for making a good job, what size spacers would you use for 20 by 30 tiles

Reply to
Ian
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4mm probably.

Do check walls for levelness and flatness.

If wonky, use strings to get the final surface flat - use thicker cement layers to get it packed out.

If no horzontal surface available to start tiles to, nail batten on wall and level it, and tile up from that, then remove batten and tile down to whatever.

I have had gereat success with evostik waterproof cement, and BAL grout.

Hire or buy electric tile saw. So much easier.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Don't skimp on adhesive. I always use tile cement intended for commercial swimming pools. Always fully fill behind tiles. Do not dot'n'dab. Don't use combined grout and adhesive. The compromises mean that it is poor for both tasks. Use an anti-fungal grout.

Always shape the grout with a suitable rounded tool of the correct radius, unshaped grout looks awful.

Buy an electric tile saw and learn how to shape complicated bits. Learn how to mitre corners on it. Do straight cuts with a metal barred "contractor" grade snap type cutter.

Seal the grout (and the tiles if not glazed) with Lithofin KF/MN StainStop. The combination of fungicide in the grout and sealants in the StainStop will have the grout looking spotless for years.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Whata the best trick for tiling the underside of the window reveal, I have heared reports of silicone being used to stop them falling while they adhere?

Reply to
Ian

I'd generaly agree with Christians main points and use a decent comb with the adhesive, buy one rather than the wee plastic thing that may come with the adhesive. In my experience a decent waterproof adhesive is adequate.

Personally I'd use the standard, small tile spacers you get, about 1-1.5mm, combined with the bevel on the tiles, you'll get a reasonable 2-3mm grout line. Some people attempt to stick the spacers at the corner of the tiles, don't do this, Place the spacers so that only one arm is used to correctly spsace eth tiles, and they cabn then be removed after the adhesiveis set..

Wipe of as much of the excess grout as possible as soon as possible, this is the easiest time to get it off. Be careful of large spacers or you may end up somethng that looks like a brick wall. OK for flooring but not too clever on the wall IMHO.

cheers

David

Reply to
David M

If you use the type of tile cement that I recommended, this won't be a problem. It sticks like a very sticky thing in a sticky mood. If you find problems in practice, I'd mock up a prop with some wood offcuts.

The important thing when tiling the reveal is to mitre the external corners, like you would with skirting. This is easily achieved with the electric tile saw by lifting the mitre board to 45 degrees. The disadvantage is that it does create a sharp edge, but this can be removed. It does look much better than simply butting tiles up to each other on the corner.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Why not use tile trim? A rounded edge is more practical and IMO looks better

Reply to
stuart noble

Obviously much depends on the style of the room and the individual tiles.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Anyone know of an online supplier for this stuff?

Reply to
John Rumm

Almost any online tile place.

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Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

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Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

I notice they list a Grout Protector product. That sounds like it may be more appropriate for what I want (i.e. with already glazed tiles). Has anyone used this? is it any good?

Reply to
John Rumm

My main concern is that it is water based. Whilst I'm normally in favour of water based products, I just have a suspicion that a solvent based one might provide longer lasting service in this application. However, it is clearly designed for the job, and will undoubtedly be such a vast improvement over no sealant at all.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

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