Thoughts about a Viessmann Vitodens 200

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I have one of these boilers and it's fine - apart from being such a fiddle to change settings. Partially my fault as it's mounted near the floor in the airing cupboard in the bathroom, and the programmer is at the bottom. And because it's LCD you have to get on axis to read it. And I'm getting far too old to lie on the floor to read a tiny screen, handbook, and push awkward buttons.

I have what is effectively a zone controller in the kitchen in a sensible place which allows me to switch to water only or standby etc if going away

- but not to access everything the main controller does. There are no zones in the house - it's all one. So you can't control the house temperature from it.

The main controller contains the main microprocessor and simply plugs into a motherboard via (IIRC) an eight pin connector where the power relays etc are. And dimension wise is identical to the zone one, so would fit its housing.

What I would like to do is dispense with the zone one and extend the connection from the motherboard and fit the main programmer in the kitchen. Viessmann don't supply a cable for this - but I reckon I could make up a ribbon one quite easily, as the plugs and sockets are standard pitch. The cable length would be about 2 metres. I doubt I'd do any damage by trying this - but what would be the chances of it working?

[Vortex4]

Sorry can't answer your questiuon but I've been looking at one of these to replace my old (relatively) inefficient Potterton Prima 80F.

IIRC the flow and return are 22mm and come from the bottom. Is this correct?

Is there any elegant way for the pipes to exit upwards? Not a showstopper but it won't be as elegant as it could be in my situation.

Would you buy one again?

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Yes. All the pipework is at the bottom.

I'd say it's impossible. The main 'guts' have a galvanised steel box round them with the pump and diverter valve below along with the electronics - one reason I'd guess to reduce noise. It's pretty quiet. So you'd have to make holes in that - and there's not much clearance to get pipes past the heat exchanger and pressure vessel.

Yes. I installed it myself and the tech department were very helpful (I'm just a DIYer). I've got the weather compensated version and the instructions for setting that up are a nightmare - so you need to talk to a human. ;-) It's beautifully made mechanically. The electronics etc are rather cheap looking plastic which is a bit of a contrast - but I've no reason to doubt their reliability. I had a problem with it cutting out at random after 18 months or so (a reset always got it going) and they reckoned it was down to the software and fitted a new programmer free. Since then it's been fine.

[John Rumm]

IIRC there is the option of a standoff frame for these. That mounts on the wall behind the boiler and allows space for the pipes to run up behind it, at the expense of it sticking out from the wall a bit further.

[Vortex5]

Thanks,

I've looking at the Vitodens 200 on and off for months

I have a thermal store I installed over Christmas so the Weather compensation technology is unnecessary.

Next project is to install some solar collectors for the store, then change the boiler in the spring/summer in a sunny period when hopefully continuity of HW is assured (and heating is unnecessary)!

Looking at it the downward piping is not so much of an issue, and anyhow it will all be out of sight.

Thanks again,

david

[Dave Plowman (News)]

You'd still need some pretty tight bends to reverse the direction of the pipes without them showing so I'd only do this as a last resort.