Stiffening a length of copper pipe

[Chris Hogg]

My late wife had made a wonderfully colourful patchwork bedspread, that came out once a year at Christmas. I would like to hang it on a wall, rather like a tapestry, so that it's on view all the time, because I love it.

The bedspread is edged with a double thickness of black fabric. My plan is to unpick the stitching of this edging at each end of one side, so that I can slide a length of 15mm copper pipe* through it. Then I plan to support the copper pipe at each end with curtain pole brackets. (I had thought of using curtain pole instead of copper pipe, but the narrowest available seems to be 28mm, and I think that would be too fat to slide into the bedspread edging strip).

But the bedspread is rather heavy (it's backed with panels of black corduroy and velvet), and I am concerned the pipe will sag in the middle. What can I do to stiffen it? I had thought of filling it with cement, but IIRC cement corrodes copper over time. Another thought was to fill it with loose sand and vibrate it to compact the sand really well, but I'm not sure that would make the pipe rigid enough; yet a third thought was to fill it with expanding foam, but again, would that be effective?

Any other suggestions? The bedspread is 1.65m sq. Picture here

(in reality, the colours are richer than in the picture).

*it's a length I have spare, but I could get some 22mm pipe if it would be better.

[Muddymike]

Fill it with a steel rod.

Mike

[newshound]

I think a sand/cement "grout" might be OK but messy / fiddly. I don't think vibration would compact sand sufficiently to prevent a small sag. I'd be inclined to look at the chromed steel tubing which is sold for wardrobe rails which I'm sure is going to be significantly stiffer. IIRC usual diameter is about 20 mm. Plenty in Screwfix, both round and oval.

[Harry Bloomfield]

..and near impossible to get to fill the pipe.

[Robin]

20mm steel conduit - ideally the black enamel - if you can find someone local with stock?

[GB]

The stiffness of the pipe depends on:

1. The diameter - the bigger the better.
2. The thickness of the walls of the pipe - the thicker the better.
3. The material. Steel is much stronger than copper.

Perhaps you could use some old gas barrel?

Otherwise, could you support it at various points along the length, so it doesn't need to be as strong?

[T i m]

I think the key here is having a good vertical section. Flat strip would be good but would flop sideways so you also need some horizontal section to manage that.

So, a light rectangular box section steel or if you can get some 22mm copper in there, what about two lengths of 15mm solder tacked (taped for testing) together and used 'over and under' / Fo8?

Cheers, T i m

[Bill]

In message , Muddymike writes

Threaded at each end so it can be tightened to have a slight bow upwards. Like a guitar truss rod. Of course the mounting brackets would have to be pretty good to stop it rotating.

[John Rumm]

Yup I see what you mean, that has quite an impact!

Steel conduit would certainly be an option. You may also be able to get a length of oval or round wardrobe hanging rail. They may be stiff enough.

However one option would be to arrange the wall mounting so that you can put the pipe under tension. It ought to be possible to fashion a couple of attractive wood mounts with holes for the pipe to pass through (and that you can cross drill to allow a screw to intersect with the pipe to retain it), then a moveable part of one or both mounts, screwed laterally to a fixed bit so you can tighten the screw and pull it taught.

Another option would be self adhesive velcro strip. Fix a wood batten to the wall with "hook" bit of the strip fixed to it, and then place the fluffy bit on the back of the cloth. You can then stick it in place. (a few stitches on the cloth may be wise)

(you could even do a full frame like that, so that its supported at the sides and bottom also, and which could then be "hung" like a picture)

[Bob Minchin]

Steel conduit is about 20mm. I use it for wardrobe rail and plenty strong enough. Black or BZP finish available

[tabbypurr]

cement/sand has near zero tensile strength, and without tensile strength will give you no extra rigidity/strength. Go steel or wood.

NT

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Something like Dexion Speed Frame instead? 1in square steel tube and very strong - comes painted in black too for about 10 quid for 3 metres. Other colours too.

[Aaron]

I'd use 19mm RHS, square steel tube or 12mm if 18 mm wont fit.

Not enough to matter in that situation.

Yeah, I doubt it would be.

I doubt it.

You'd be better with the non annealed stuff if you use copper. Personally I'd use RHS, its quite a bit stiffer. Solid stainless steel rod even stiffer but not cheap.

[Tim Watts]

Slide another pipe inside of it - B&Q have tube in ali and steel in a variety of sizes - it need not be a perfect fit.

Or dry sand and some repair/casting resin soaked into the sand (Halfords may still sell this for use with fiberglass)

[Tim Watts]

It would prevent the copper from kinking by resisting local crushing - so may actually work.

[Chris Hogg]

Many thanks for all the replies. Lots of good suggestions there, but the simplest has to be the chrome-plated steel tubing used for wardrobes etc. I see Wickes sell it,

so guess where I'll be heading in the next day or two.

[tabbypurr]

fair point. It would also add weight :)

NT

[Chris Hogg]

I originally had in mind to fill the pipe with dry sand-cement mix, vibrate the tube to compact the mix, stand the pipe on end, duck-tape a funnel to the top, fill with water and let it soak down through to wet the cement.

[Tim Watts]

It would be cheaper to go to B&Q and just buy a bit of steel tube :) And cover with copper tube if you are concerned about rust.

[Brian Gaff]

Remember Cement is only strong in compression.

Brian