Stiff grease in camper door lock

[David WE Roberts]

I had major problems getting the camper door to latch this morning, after the cold night.

I eventually guesssed that the grease in the mechanism had stiffened up, and after a quick blast with a fan heater it freed off quite a bit.

However I don't know if normal grease stiffens a lot around freezing, or if this particular lock has some water mixed in with the grease which is causing the problem.

Anyway, is there such a thing as (slightly) low temperature grease? I Googled low temperature grease but found stuff designed to work between -54C to -121C and if we get those temperatures then opening the camper door will be the least of my worries.

Cheers

Dave R

[Newshound]

Can you easily strip the latch to clean and re-grease it? My guess is that you have a relatively large but thin area of grease in shear, resulting in the sensitivity to increased viscosity at low temperature. Such areas are also vulnerable to debris, hence the suggestion of cleaning.

[thirty-six]

Clean it out completely and use powdered graphite.

[Paul - xxx]

+1

Crap in the lock (I know, it's awkward), coupled with corrosion and 'dried out' grease happens to even the best aluminium hinged doors .. ;)

Powdered graphite from any locksmith.

[David WE Roberts]

Ta - certainly a good long term plan. Of course it is the wrong time of year to be stripping door locks in the open so is there a temporary fix? Rocket/WD40 to thin stuff out and chase of water? Knowing my luck if I start dismantling stuff something will not go as planned and I don't want an unsecured door during storms.

[Andrew Gabriel]

WD40 is very good at washing out the water, and the grease, but it leaves nothing protective or lubricating behind, so it will leave any steel surfaces vulnerable to corrosion from that point on unless you regrease.

With regards to graphite powder - do consider what happens to it when it escapes out of the bottom of the lock, and its potential for staining whatever it comes into contact with.

[Newshound]

Not quite true, the thin "solvent" phase will evaporate leaving a small amount of thicker mineral oil. Even in a vertical joint this may remain effective for a while, depending on surface tension etc.

Agreed

[Dave Liquorice]

As with any other lubricant you don't put so much on that there is enough to escape. Certainly a waste to put it anywhere where there aren't mating faces.

[Paul - xxx]

+1 +1 ;)

[Ian Jackson]

WD40 definitely provides a fairly long-lasting lubricating (and rust-preventing) residue. It certainly doesn't simply evaporate away to nothing.