I am bolting a steel 'goalpost' to the concrete foundation using resin anchors (4 at each end). Because the concrete is not exactly level I have used a small stack of steel washers on the projetcing studs to level it all. This leaves a roughly 15mm gap between steel and concrete.
i have asked bulding control for their view on this but they have not replied yet.
What does uk.d-i-y think? Should I fill the space with concrete perhaps?
It works. Whether it'll continue to work in the longterm depends on the loading & the compressive strength of the concrete. I'd put a stiff grout mix under it (sharp sand & cement).
Bolted agricultural barn frames are often supplied with a sack of mixed thickness steel plate offcuts to level up the uprights. As Phil says above, work a stiff grout under the foot.
I can remove the steel, put down the mix and then bolt the steel on top (on the washers) while the mix is wet, squeezing the mix out round the edge. That would ensure a good fill I think.
I can remove the steel, put down the mix and then bolt the steel on top (on the washers) while the mix is wet, squeezing the mix out round the edge. That would ensure a good fill I think.
Robert
Where does the goalie land? Are you covering the bases with thick soil / soft sand? I'd hate to think of the injuries that may happen, landing on ones head atop those sharp bolts.
Goal posts are normally sunk into concrete, which is buried deep into the soil (at least 9 inches, but 12 to 14 inches is preferred) to prevent injury from anything sharp protruding above ground level. The ends of the metalwork are painted in liquid felt (thick bitumen paint) to slow the ground level rusting.
OK, you hit the post, right on the square corner, and you blacken an eye. Hit one of those bolt ends, and you take an eye out. I wouldn't want to land on those bolts when I make my spectacular, game wining penalty save. :-)
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Remove all but 1 or 2 washers on each stud, leaving a gap of just a few mm, tighten everything up, then mix sand and cement grout at 1:1 and mix it wet, pour it on and tap the flat base plate with a hammer and the grout will find it's own level filling the gap entirely.
Use stiff mortar and there will be voids - the method above was how we were told to do it by an architect
I'm afraid I don't fully understand this and perhaps I did not explain my problem properly. This steel base needs to be 15mm above the concrete for the horizontal beam to be level (the other base is flat on the concrete). I cannot lower it to just 1 or 2 washers' height above the concrete.
I agree with the view that it needs something solid underneath. I would use an injectable resin cartridge for £8, smoothed off neatly around the sides. Saves the time required in dismantling and re-assembling, dealing with shrinkage and cracking etc.
Although tongue in cheek you do have a point. before I bolted the steel down I covered the projecting studs carefully so they would not damage anyone falling on them.
Someone might do a "mini-bag" somewhere for about =A310, otherwise I suspect it might sell ok on Ebay.
Some plates come with a large hole in the middle, you do a plasticine ring, then pour the grout through the hole.
If any studs are projecting, domed acorn nuts might be an idea, together with some padding. I have a suspicion the pro stuff use a rubber covering plate moulded to over fit the base. Sort of like a speed bump rubber. I guess a UV stabilised 1" thick carbon black rubber sheet square or disc "giant washer" pushed down over the post would do.
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