Spalling bricks / re-pointing

[steve]

Hi,

I'm planning to fix a couple of aerial brackets to the side of the house, but before I do it would seem wise to remedy the spalling bricks and re-point.

Rather than describe the current problem, I've uploaded some pictures -

I need to replace the spalled bricks? Or can I repatch them? Should I seal the wall? The mortar is fairly sandy and mixed with gravel.

Thanks,

Steve.

[Bruce Tanner]

You could hack out the mortar around the bricks, turn the brick round and re-mortar - that way you won't have to find matching bricks

[Lobster]

I've heard of this trick before, but given that the affected bricks are evidently susceptible to spalling, isn't it wasted effort to re-use the same bricks? Just wondering.

David

[Mark]

Has the main part of this house got a flat roof ? why is there no guttering visible on the flank wall.

[Space_Cowby]

Hard work on the ground let alone up a ladder.

Your biggest problem is getting the bricks. It looks as if you have 'metric' bricks. Not sure when these started but they are about 300mm long compared to normal bricks of 215 mm. If you can get some I would chop out the damaged bricks, replace and repoint. Once they start spelling they will not stop.

[steve]

The pictures might be a bit misleading.

Looking at

that is the side wall of the property (it's a semi) looking up to the chimney stack. You can see the roof on the LHS sloping towards the front of the house. The guttering is further left - out of shot. I guess it does look like the chimny stack is the end of a flat root.

Steve.

[steve]

Just measured the bricks and they're ~220mm wide - but they'll 'imperial' given it's an edwardian house.

I should have some spare bricks so that won't be an issue.

Is this a feasible job to do up a ladder?

There's 3 bricks next to one another which has failed, is it OK to replace them all at the same time? Or should I do one, let it set, do another,etc.?

Thanks to everyone who has replied,

Steve.

[Space_Cowby]

[Space_Cowby]

snip

They are rather large looking on the pics. If you are happy on a ladder it can be done. But it could take you 30 mins to get the three bricks out. You will need to lash the ladder or get some one to foot it. You will be banging away quite hard here.

Start with a plugging chisel and cut the joint out, snap brick in half and then remove the rest. You will be ok in patches up to 5 providing there is no lintels etc nearby. You will also need a small bolster - electricians chisel and a decent flat cold chisel. You could also drill all the joints out with a hammer drill or SDS drill.

Damp down out brickwork with water and replace bricks using a stiff mortar mix. Have some slate handy to drive into the top bedjoint - between the top of the last new brick and bottom of old one.

Plugging chisel

chisel bolster these are sold for lifting floor boards they are the same width as a brick is high i.e. 3" 75mm . A bricklayers bolster is 100mm 4" wide and will be no use for getting a brick out.

[Space_Cowby]

although these are sold for lifting floor boards they are the same width

[Space_Cowby]

> although these are sold for lifting floor boards they are the same width

[Mark]

Ahh ok.. Yes it can be done off a ladder if you are ok with working at that height, would be worth using a ladder stand-off as you will need both hands free. And although expensive one of these

useful for getting mortar into the gaps. Frogs up, and well buttered first

[steve]

OK. I think this provides a good excuse to get a ladder stabiliser. I was thinking for getting a stabiliser which spreads the load at the top (and provides a convenient tray) plus one which has telescoping legs to spread the ground area. Sound reasonable?

Fine. Some people recommend drilling holes through the brick, is this worthwhile?

It's a double brick wall and the face on some of the "tie" bricks has spalled. I'd expect this to be less of a problem being the side of the brick and, anyway, the chances of getting it out almost impossible. What's the best way to prevent any further spalling? Just face it with some mortar?

Cheers,

Steve.

[Lobster]

I bought one of these standoffs quite recently, for a similar job:

or really is the mutt's nuts - I now wouldn't even consider doing any sort of brickwork from a ladder without one now (which isn't to say a tower wouldn't be better still). Otherwise where do you put the mortar, the spare brick or bits thereof, the various tools etc, all without falling off or dropping things. The wide separation of the feet against the wall really helps make it more stable too.

David

[steve]

Excellent, thanks for the info. One of those is definitely on then shopping list. I really could have done with one of those whilst doing the upstairs windows.

[bigcat]

I would definitely use an angle grinder rather than hand tools, for top and bottom at least. Theyre very cheap from screwfix or toolstation. With a diamond blade (=A311 for 3 from toolstation)

Turning damaged bricks round works, tho for how long is another matter, I wouldnt. Your pic addr isnt available, is this an old house by any chance?

NT

[Space_Cowby]

Some people recommend drilling holes through the brick, is this worthwhile? What's the best way to prevent any further spalling? Just face it with some mortar?

1. Its easier but not as satisfying if you know what i mean. I still prefer to chop out by hand as i dont think its that much quicker.

1. Dont face up with mortar as this will just blow come the next frost. you will need to break the headers ' tie bricks' then just replace with a half brick.

You can seal the wall with a PVA / water mix or you get ronseal i think clear sealant. .

[steve]

OK. I'll have a go with handtools to start - the mortar is quite sandy and fairly easy to remove. But if the going gets tough I shall resort to the might of the anglegrinder.

Pic link definitely working OK on NTL.

Yes, it's Edwardian - so 90 odd years old. The chimney has already been repointed, the rest of that wall is untouched. So it's done pretty well as it is fairly well exposed to the weather.

[Rob Morley]

Looks like it could be lime mortar - if so you should probably repoint in lime, as a portland cement mortar may cause problems.

[steve]

That did cross my mind but assumed it wasn't given the other areas that have been repointed are using cement mortar. Is there any easy way of determining the makeup of the mortar?