Some new electrickery wiki articles for your review and comment...

OK the first one seems to come up fairly frequently:

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way through doing that there was a certain feeling of "not wanting to start from here" in that much of it was going to end up being about choosing the right cable, and that is a subject relevant to lots of jobs not just showers. Hence Adam and I also did this one as well:

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comments, corrections etc as per usual please.

Reply to
John Rumm
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Just the one comment, the maximum earth fault loop impedance figures are those as published in BS7671, do you think there should be any details on correcting these for operating temperature, or even putiing the rule of thumb

0.80 corrected values in as in the On Site Guide?
Reply to
Stewith

Yes. I have updated it. Thanks

Reply to
ARWadsworth

I don't know if this is worth mentioning, but if I am asked about one, I want to know the rating of the main supply fuse, the CU and also what else is in the house. A neighbour's boyfriend just bought one without any thought: fuse 60A, electric cooker and about 30A of storage heaters - the shower was 9.5kW. I might be wrong, but a small house on a small fuse and the diversity of storage heaters...!

Reply to
PeterC

if available":-)

And yes I always forget to add a comment even for spelling corrections.

Reply to
ARWadsworth

Take great care if using pliers etc to bend and shape wires to not damage or knick the insulation while doing it.

nick?

[g]
Reply to
george [dicegeorge]

lol, surprising how one missing letter can change the whole tone!

Reply to
John Rumm

That's what pikeys do to the conductors?

Reply to
ARWadsworth

Personally I'm not completely happy calculating for an appliance rated at x Watts at 230 Volts when I know it's going to actually get 240 Volts through it.

Owain

Reply to
Owain

240V across it, not through it. The Ladybird Book of Electrics is that way>>>>>

:-)

Reply to
ARWadsworth

245, here. We're very close to the substation!
Reply to
Skipweasel

Generally with the larger appliances like showers etc that causes the design to be slightly conservative since the makers usually state the actual power at 240V.

E.g. shower which delivers 9500W at 240V will draw 39.6A, but you design as if it draws 41.3A. (in reality a 9.5kW shower would probably run at under 9kW on 230V)

Reply to
John Rumm

A question I fear will probably display how little I understand: would it be (i) right and (ii) worthwhile to add a para. about the special provision for ring final circuits using 2.5mm T+E etc being deemed to be "OK" in certain circumstances so long lz as installed is >=20A? I thought there was something about this in the Wiki but can't find it now.

Reply to
Robin

It might be worth adding a note that the article as a whole is really focussed on the times where one of the "standard" circuits in the OSG (of which 32A/2.5mm^2 rings are one) are not appropriate.

I can't think of many cases where you will be designing a specific circuit using conductors in parallel in a domestic environment, and even if you were, the specific "deeming" of compliance by BS7671 at a slightly lower Iz (i.e. 20A rather than half of 1.45 x 32A) permitted for ring final circuits would not apply to your circuit anyway.

Reply to
John Rumm

It is worth noting that the fuse wll not blow at 60A. A 60A BS3036 fuse will pass 120A for about an hour before tripping.

Reply to
ARWadsworth

Just a couple points about the shower one:

  1. There's no mention of how far from the end of the pipe the nail should be driven in to ensure there's enough insulating water between live & user
  2. and no mention of the method of wrapping the bell wire round the cold pipe to cool it

NT

Reply to
Tabby

Might need a special article for those ;-)

Reply to
John Rumm

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