Smithers, pass me the Numbr 5 Twatting Iron

[David]

I fancy a game of brick.

Much to my relief, after drilling some guide holes through from the inside for location purposes a judicious mix of the cordless SDS to drill extra holes and the corded SDS with a chisel head I have knocked enough of the outside brick out to get a pipe through.

I chose push fit because you can put it together then take it apart again when you screw up.

One side issue is that if you have the complete push fit joint outside the wall then the waste pipe stands too far off to get a standard support clip on.

No worries in this case because I can clip it further down.

However there seem to be some obvious options:

(1) Sink the push fit 90 degree joint into the wall and make good around it which removes much of the benefit of push fit.

(2) Have the joint proud and put a piece of batten or similar between the plastic clip and the wall.

(3) Assuming a longish run, bend in towards the wall and clip further down (my chosen option at the moment).

I assume that this is why many use solvent weld for kitchen and bathroom waste pipes.

Cheers

Dave R

[Fredxx]

Solvent weld does look neater.

Why not have a solvent weld where convenient and visible outside and push-fit inside?

[Andy Burns]

Yes, the connections are far less bulky

[Fredxx]

They are far less likely to leak and more rugged too!

[newshound]

+1, just try to make sure you assemble it so that you can open it up without a hacksaw when you need to!

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Push fit anything is for rank amateurs. More expensive than solvent weld for wastes. Same applies to water pipe.

[John Rumm]

Indeed - I tend to use solvent weld for everything, and just accept that mistakes will need cutting free and re-doing.

For long runs I favour a swept tee in place of an elbow at the exit point. Then you can fit a rodding eye to the "uphill" side of the tee. That makes fixing blockages easy without the need to take the pipe and fittings apart.

[John Rumm]

Push fit waste has its place - handy on installs that may need disassembly from time to time, and less ugly than 40mm compression / universal fittings.

[jgh]

I aim to fit at least one or two push-fits in a run for maintainaince. Was a blessing last winter when the run from the kitchen sink froze, I popped one elbow off and rodded the ice out.

With water pipes I aim to have a couple of compression joints at low points as otherwise mainatinance is impossible if there's a dribble somewhere and you can't drive the water off to solder a replacement joint.

[tabbypurr]

drill a 2mm hole, solder everything up.

NT

[tabbypurr]

or turn the supply off & a tap on

[dennis]

Push fit is very good for services and CH. You don't need any joints when you run a length of plastic pipe with a push fit at each end.

[John Rumm]

The tricky thing with that is that solvent weld pipe and push fit fittings (or vice versa) are not compatible - the pipe is (intentionally) a different diameter and (necessarily) a different material.

So you have to use "universal" (i.e. compression) fittings to transition between the,

Yup copper is a different ball game since most of the various systems are compatible.