Small glazing job: advice sought

[bob.smithson]

I want to fit some glass 'skylights' above a number of doors to replace the plywood sheets that used to be there. The beading is still there on one side - I removed the other side to get the plywood out. I plan to get some glass cut to size and to secure with new beading on the side I removed. What I am not sure about is whether I need something else to 'bed' the glass into, both to prevent it from rattling and to provide a bit of 'give' in case any flexing of the wood occurs.

I'm guessing some kind of mastic would be suitable? I have seen glazing silicone but am not sure it is overkill for this. In case it's relevant, it's a completely interior job and the intention is to paint the frames and beading.

~~~ Bob

[EricP]

It is usual to supply a bit of putty just to stop rattling and breaking if the door slams.

Not a load just enough to hold secure.

[Frank Erskine]

Just stick some foam 'draught excluder' strip into the recess, put the glass into position, then perhaps another strip of foam, before applying quadrant beading.

[EricP]

Nice one!!

:)

Cheers

[meow2222]

Just press the beading up against the glass and tack in place. I've not found any need for putty for small lights.

NT

[Stuart Noble]

Any sort of cheap acrylic stuff in a cartridge (general purpose mastic etc). Use it on both sides of the glass, then wipe off excess with a damp rag. Putty eventually goes rock hard so is worse than useless.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Just ordinary putty. It will stop the glass rattling when the beading shrinks. It also has the advantage it can be painted over - unlike some flexible types.

[Stuart Noble]

But it has the severe disadvantage that it sets hard, especially indoors, and especially in thin layers. With beads both sides it isn't going to show anyway.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I have a glass vestibule door with glass panels either side and on top - the same as the OP is asking about. All set in putty many years ago. It hasn't dropped out and they don't rattle. It's also a very easy material to work - unlike many of these modern flexible fillers. Cheap, too. ;-)

[meow2222]

I dont see how thats a disadvantage. Hard, soft, whatever, it prevents rattles & keeps the missus happy.

NT

[Phil L]

Until one of the doors slam with the wind / stroppy teenager / angry spouse, then it rattles around, and can easily break.

[Phil L]

a tube of silicone (and you can use any colour / make you like, 'glazing' silicone is just silicone) will probably cost less than putty (£2) ...tiny bead along the corner, IE where the existing bead meets the frame, put glass in, another bead of silicone, then tack in your beadings, cut off any excess prior to painting, using a stanley knife, don't bother trying to remove it while it's still sticky....one tube should do about 30 or 40 panes.

[Stuart Noble]

And if you need to replace the glass you'll have a devil of a job getting the old stuff out. Acrylic mastic gives you the best of both worlds.

[Stuart Noble]

Putty creates rattles because it becomes brittle. You might as well use cement if you're not bothered about flexibility.

[meow2222]

Well, I'm not short of putty bedded glazing, and never had any rattles from it.

Cement doesnt stick, and lacks adequate tensile strength or flexibility to survive for long in a slightly flexible wood frame.

Same again eh.

NT

[Stuart Noble]

You think dried putty has flexibility? Snap it between your fingers and see

[meow2222]

since it stays in place as wood frames flex slightly, I'd say its fairly obvious it has enough flexibility for the job.

NT

[Stuart Noble]

It has zero flexibility when it dries. I've picked enough of it out of window frames to vouch for that.

[meow2222]

...shakin head

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Only if it falls out.