Scribing to a corner

Hello,

I'm going to be dot'n'dabbing some plasterboard, but how do you scribe into a corner? If I scribe and cut the wall edge first then when I do the ceiling edge the wall edge will be out, and vice versa.

So how is it done?

Thanks,

Graham

Reply to
Graham Jones
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Let me see if I've understood what your problem is.

Is it the case that both the wall edge and the ceiling edge are wiggly (not straight)? Would you normally hold the board up against (say) the ceiling edge so that it touches in a few places (and there are a few gaps), and that you would then use a two-pronged scribe (one acting as a feeler which runs along the ceiling edge, the other having a pencil or sharp point with which to mark or scratch the board) to copy the ceiling edge profile vertically down onto the board?

If so, then once you cut along the edge, and put the plaster in position, the board will lie further up from where it was when you copied the profile, by the distance between the scribe's prongs. If you then do the same for the wall edge, transferring the profile horizontally onto the board, you'll end up having to move the board sideways by the prong distance, thus putting the ceiling profiles out of alignment.

Of course if at least one of wall and ceiling edge were straight, then shifting that profile along would be fine, so I presume both edges are wiggly.

Instead of copying the ceiling profile one inch down (south) and the (left) wall's profile one inch right (east), copy both profiles one inch "downright" (southeast).

Don't copy one, cut it, copy the other, cut that, but copy both profiles in one session, then cut both.

Reply to
Ronald Raygun

How do you mean scribe? If the wall is out and you want to cover it with board you have to scribe it. The bottom is going to be at least 1/2" off the floor to stop bounces cracking it. If the ceiling is that far out it will show up if you scrinbe 1/2" of an edge, you aught to be considering coving too.

You can have as much off the floor as you like as long as the skirting board will cover it. Remember to keep it all in line with a longish straight edge. You just hold it all up with bits of packing that you take out after. Make the adhesive nice and stiff a bit wetter than blue tack to start with.

Also remember to place fire stops with the adhesive and strips to act as pattresses for holding cupboiards and dadoes etc.

Reply to
Weatherlawyer

Offer the long edge up to the wall and see at what angle you need to cut the top. Unless it's way out, I wouldn't bother. Just fill the gaps with plaster

Reply to
stuart noble

If you're going to skim afterwards, it might be quicker not to bother: follow the floor and ceiling with the boards, and trowel in any gaps in the corner with your PB adhesive. That's what I did ;-)

Cheers Richard

Reply to
geraldthehamster

If its going to be skimmed, the spread wil sort it.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Hello, what do you mean by fire stops?

Reply to
Graham Jones

Thanks for the reply, yes that is my problem exactly.

I see, easy when you know how! Thanks.

Reply to
Graham Jones

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