A short section of barge board is rotting at one end, I suspect because
the end section of guttering beyond the downpipe is leaking. Instead of
replacing the whole 4m length is it acceptable to scarf a new section in
place well beyond the rot? If so what ratio would people recommend for
the join? Also I assume I need planed treated wood for the replacement,
is this correct?
I am currently weighing up the options of hiring vs buying a ladder
enabling me to get up there (5m). Any thoughts on this one appreciated
Cutting the joint holds no fears for me, my woodworking skills are well
up to it, I've just never had to deal with barge and soffits beyond
painting them before.
School of Life Sciences, University of Dundee, Scotland
I saw someone advertising them in the local paper, the story was that
they were a small business who had bought a number of towers for a
(painting?) contract but the contract had fallen through. It was
delivered by a landrover pulling a trailer, they had several to
deliver the day they delivered mine.
I've since seen several adverts for towers at similar prices, mostly
in local small ads. and such, I'm not sure where they come from but
mine is well enough welded together and galvanised to make me feel
safe working on it.
The ScrewFix ones are aluminium I believe and maybe aimed at heavier
use (though I can't really see mine wearing out unless it's really
How much space does it take up when collapsed? I have very little reason
normally to get up to that height so am reluctant to go to a tower for
one job (I have to clear the guttering on the other side of the house
too, easier to move a ladder than a platform). I have done a variety of
things up a ladder, and other than spending time getting the ladder into
the right position I don't see any problem in effecting the cut other
than arm fatigue.
School of Life Sciences, University of Dundee, Scotland
It takes up more space than a ladder I guess but it does come apart
into flat sections so can be stacked fairly easily.
Clearing gutters I do from a ladder too but anything requiring longer
term work (painting, fixing aerials, repairing T&G I feel *much* safer
on the tower. Falls from ladders are very common.
You can hire a tower or ladder, it depends on how safe you will feel.
Does the house have a slope just there? And can someone with the right
equiptment do the job for the price of hiring whatever you choose.
Not being saddled with a ladder or tower means you will be a little
safer from burglars.
Try Google and search for past threads on the subject. This link came up a
few times: http://www.scaffold-towers.co.uk/ Minor details like adjustable
locking wheels do just about double the price, mind !
I am contemplating buying such a thing. It worries me slightly that there
are enough neds walking past from time to time that a tower might go walkies
by way of amusement one night. Perhaps I am just being paranoid...
"John Laird" wrote
| I am contemplating buying [access tower]. It worries me slightly
| that there are enough neds walking past from time to time that a
| tower might go walkies by way of amusement one night. Perhaps
| I am just being paranoid...
Be even more worrying if the neds help it go walkies while you're still on
the top deck!
I'd get padlocks for those locking wheels :-)
firstname.lastname@example.org wrote in message
But if your not confident at heights surely putting up the tower is
not an easy task, I’ve worked from most methods of access, and
find ladders perfectly acceptable providing you are not hanging off,
performing contortions with a large electric drill. I did notice a guy
last year install a safety line between two eyebolts and he tied
himself to this seemed a good solution for safer two hands free work.
I personally went for ladders from wickes.
I have a Class 3 DIY ladder I bought from B&Q. It wasn't quite long
enough for one particular job so I hired a Class 1 Trade ladder from
HSS. There's really no comparison. The Trade ladder feels a helluva
lot safer and is consequently much easier to use.
I'm sure the DIY ladder is perfectly good and meets all the relevant
standards but, if you don't like being up 'em, then hiring (or biting
the bullet and buying) a trade ladder is the way to go.
BTW, I think Class 3 and Class 1 have been replaced with European EN
numbers now. No idea what Class 2 was.....
A couple of years ago I was looking for a ladder - and was amazed at the
low weight limits of the B&Q ones (and, basically, any non-trade ones).
Being a fat git, I was well over the limit so we got the cheapest trade
ones - and they are much more solid than anything else we saw - and not
that much more expensive.
What shocked me was that every shop was quite happy to flog these to me -
amd I am obviously too heavy for them. And many had their limits marked in
a way that was not easy to read.
I haven't checked but I think the EN regs provide higher weight limits.
It seems to me that if you do fall and end up hanging on the rope you
may be in (serious) trouble for a number of reasons:-
You'll need someone there with you to assist you and/or summon
help (shouldn't ever work alone on a ladder anyway I know).
Unless you have a really good harness then you will suffer a lot
just being suspended, it doesn't take that long to die.
Getting back to safety may be easier said than done even if you
aren't injured by the fall.
I'm serious, it doesn't take long to die hanging on a rope, rock
climbers know this and have strategies for getting off the rope
quickly if they fall.
A rope will save you from immediate death or serious injury but
there's little point unless you have a strategy to avoid a subsequent
slow death hanging on the end of a rope.
A proper safety harness will presumably, if correctly used, prevent
you from falling off the ladder at all. This is the right way to make
yourself safer on a ladder (or tower for that matter). Trying to save
yourself "with a bit of rope" is not a very good idea I don't think.
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