I'm finally getting round to the garden, which is on 2 levels, about 2 foot apart, separated by a stairway and a retaining wall that has collapsed.
I want to rebuild the 2 foot high retaining wall.
I obviously need to read up about it. Can anyone please suggest any relevant links?
Alternatively, please add to this thread.
On 20/05/14 23:12, email@example.com wrote:
Dry system (no mortar):
Wickes sell it and it can be obtained on the internet by the pallet.
Still needs a foundation (tamped MOT Type 1 if following the
instructions) but has the advantage that it will move if the round moves.
On Tuesday, May 20, 2014 11:12:35 PM UTC+1, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I built a 1/2 brick thick retaining wall out of engineering brick in a Flemish bond, but with the cross bricks removed to leave drainage holes which we planted up with drought tolerant plants. So:
without the black bricks. That did use mortar. I built a bit of a foundation first, but it wasn't very much.
The wall was about 1m high, and sloped back about 100 or 200mm.
Isn't it traditional not to put proper foundations in, then complain
that the wall has failed after a comparatively short time? Indeed, it
may be more cost/labour effective to keep rebuilding the wall than to
put in proper foundations that probably need to go down the best part of
a metre to work properly.
We have a 5 foot, or so, retaining wall at my old office. I remember it
being replaced when I was a child, and I had it replaced when I was 35.
A surveyor friend said that to work properly with that sort of pressure
of earth we needed to treat it like a house wall and go down around a
metre with the foundations - 90cm maybe? Maybe that was overkill, but I
am 60 now, and the wall is looking absolutely fine. It looks a good deal
better than the poor builder did when he was digging the foundations.
I didn't bother.
This was built on slabs over dry mix and MOT type 1, reclaimed soft red
brick with cobble top. The back was reinforced with a sloping, stiff
concrete mix extending a few inches below the slabs. Hasn't moved yet
although I suppose the curve is stronger than a straight wall would be.
On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 5:35:55 PM UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
The curve will be *much* stronger. Also the OP wanted a wall about
twice as high as yours - which means it will be under at least twice as
much stress, probably four times, and it might even by eight times.
Half way down a wall which is twice as high, the sideways pressure from
the soil will be doubled, but the distance above the bottom will be
double too, so the torque to topple the wall over (which is simplest
failure mode) will be quadrupled. I think I'm convinced it's a square
Looking over a house for sale with some friends.
Casually slammed shut the gate on the way out and the 4' single brick
(or is it half?) wall fell over!
Clearly built in a hurry for the impending sale. There was a pier at the
gate but the builder had incorporated a plastic dpc......
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