I have a fairly beefy Kaarcher with the drain-jetting hose attachment.
I'm very glad I got the 'long' version (around 75ft.), as I've need to
use it's entire length on a couple of occasions. It's done a brilliant
job on our salt-glazed (clay pipe) drains (slowly getting replaced with
I also had a cast-iron downpipe concreted into a gully trap. Both were
solid with grit, moss and other crud off the roof, to a depth of 2' up
the pipe (tried to rod it, which is why I know). The drain-jetting
'bullet' cleared this completely after about 20 mins of soggy poking
So I'd heartily recommend them from my own experience, BUT clay land
drains are notorious for cracking and collapsing, and becoming conduits
for tree roots (in search of the water). If the drain is intact, a
pressure jetter might well clear it. but if it's collapsed, you'll have
to dig it out and repair it. It's annoying that the hose can't be
extended (it goes straight into the "gun" of the jetwash) - I have an
extension pipe for the jetwash itself, but that's no use in this
context. The 'pro' versions have much longer pipes, so hiring one might
be a better option.
SIMON MUIR, UK INDEPENDENCE PARTY, BRISTOL www.ukip.org
That's about the best way I can think of, as long as you can get in
from the bottom and let it wash the crud back down towards you.
Might be worth hiring a bigger pressure washer with a drain clearing
attachment - these have not only a front jet, but circular jets to
clean the sides and possibly even back-facing jets to help push it
Simon Avery, Dartmoor, UK
uk.d-i-y FAQ: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk /
If you don't have a pressure washer, a bit of copper pipe held onto the
hose with a jubilee clip and bent over at the end to form a jet works
reasonable well. You can hack away at the blockage without fear of
knackering anything expensive. Which is nice!
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