Radiator bleed valves

[Steve Pearce]

I have a radiatior whose bleed valve was cross-threaded, removing it has completely destroyed it. No problem I thought, just get a new one. However I've not been able to source one at the usual D-I-Y suspects. The valve is simply a small screw, the end that goes into the radiator has a taper. It has the normal square end. All the ones I have seen are much larger. This radiator dates from the late 80's so I assumed that things wouldn't have changed much.

Anyone know a source for a suitable valve?

TIA Steve

[Dave Plowman (News)]

This is the type built in?

Assuming you've tried the maker, the only other thing would be to check out lots of different sellers - including all the sheds. The type sold as a complete valve and body to screw in will have a standard radiator fitting, but might well have a different actual valve.

Alternately, find a brass screw that fits and have a point machined on it.

[Cicero]

================= I don't know if this will work because I haven't tried it. Ask at a garage for a bleed valve from a discarded brake wheel cylinder. They'll probably have a few lying round and if so it will be worth a try and I doubt if they'll charge you anything for taking away their scrap .

Cic.

[Dave Liquorice]

I doubt that you will be able to just get the threaded pointy bit, whole new assemblies shouldn't be a problem.

Does this rad have a welded in seating or a removeable one? Take the mangled remains and removeable fitting along to a plumbers merchant and see what they can offer.

[Set Square]

If it's like most of the bleed screws in my house, it will have a 2BA thread. Get a 2BA brass bolt, with a hex head, about 1" long, and a couple of nuts. Lock the nuts on about half way along the thread, with the hex edges on the nut nearest to the head alligned with those on the head. Hold it by the head and the first nut in the chuck of an electric drill, mounted in a horizontal stand. Turn the drill on and use a small flat file to file a

45 degree (90 degrees at the apex) cone on the free end of the bold.

When this is screwed into the bleed hole, it should do the same job as the original bleed screw - except that the head will stick out a bit further.

If the threads in the rad itself are damaged, you may have to clean them up with a 2BA plug tap.