Am I right in thinking that a particular glass enclosed light fitting
is rated at a certain wattage because of heat dissipation?
Am I also right in thinking that because of this I can replace a 60W
bulb in said fitting (it maxes at 75W but where can you get 75W
bulbs?) with a 25W or higher energy saver (100W equivalent)?
There's physically enough room 'cos the enclosure is a big glass
However, that would mean the 60W fluorescent would be as hot as
a 60W incandescent, and it's life would be a few minutes if you're
Generally, there's a 1:4 ratio between fluoresent and incandescent
power ratings for the same light output, so this isn't a problem.
In the US, higher power retrofit compact fluorescents are available,
but from the reports I've seen, they are very unreliable, having
very strict operating conditions (e.g. only base down and only in
unenclosed fittings), but they still overheat and kill themselves.
When we moved in to our present house many years ago, my stomach was quite
turned by the ghastly colour cast caused by the kitchen flourescent.
Swapped it out for a track light with multiple incandescent GS lights. Nice
colour. More recently I have tried to cut the heat output of various things
because of nasty hot summers and swapped the GS bulbs for those 'energy
saving' bulbs. Apart from the fact that they certainly don't last for
years, we now have the horrid colour effect back again. You can't win.
Too some extent, yes. But remember that the energy saver equivalent
includes electronics and that the electronics will not be able to
withstand the same heat build up as would a normal bulb. In other words
the fitting itself might well be OK, but the energy saver might not be
happy running at an higher temperature.
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 13:04:22 GMT, Harry Bloomfield
That's true, but in this case the globe is suitably large, ie bigger
than a football. Plenty of surface area for heat dissipation, which is
why I'm wondering why it's restricted to 75W in the first place.
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