Unless it's a ginormous radiator, use the same size of micro-bore as is used elsewhere.
As I'm sure you're aware, you need to connect one side of the rad to the flow pipe and the other side to the return. Whether you tap into the flow and return pipes above the ceiling and drop down, or do it closer to the boiler before they rise to ceiling height, doesn't really matter. Do whatever is easier and/or looks better.
I have had a look through the FAQ's and googled my query but can't seem to find the answer
I am planning to install a radiator in my kitchen,
the boiler is also sited in the kitchen I am planning to install
the radiator close to the boiler but I am unsure of the best way
to go about it
I have a combi boiler and the loop that feeds the radiators (22mm)
exits the bottom of the boiler and then takes a sharp turn upwards to run between the kitchen
ceiling and the floor of the room above before descending elswhere
in the house to feed the rest of the downstairs radiators
Each of the radiators is attached to the loop using microbore
do I connect the new rad' to the loop using microbore before
it heads up through the ceiling, the height at which the loop exits means that
this will form an inverted loop, can I do this with a combi
and if so what bore of pipe should I use ?
TIA
Will he necessarily have manifolds - rather than 22x22x10 tees at each dropoff point? If he has low level flow and return pipes close to the desired new radiator position, I can't see any reason for not tapping into them if this turns out to be convenient. Am I missing anything?
No... but running 10mm micro bore is a lot easier than 22mm.
I got the impression that the feed and return went straight up from the boiler base. Tapping them may or may not present a problem depending on where the pump is, you really need to T after it...
You can do that. The main issue is whether the microbore size will deliver enough water to the radiator given the size.
Rule of thumb is 1500W for 8mm and 2500W for 10mm on typical house distances.
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
find the answer
between the kitchen
Are you sure you want to go to the trouble in the first place? I don't think I know anyone who has a rad in the kitchen. Don't forget you get heat from the oven and hobs when they're on and even a little from the fridge & freezer.
Nodge
We have a rad in our kitchen (UB40 - Rat in my kitchen what am I gonna do), my mum has and so have the outlaws. Just wondering (curious rather than looking to argue - if you know what I mean) if it is a regional thing?
Absolutely. I HATE freezing cold kitchens. Modern life does not use ovens and hobs in the manner that they might have used the Aga in a cottage. Without heating, kitchens are cold, forbidding, uninviting places.
My kitchen (5.1m x 2.7m) came with a little diddy radiator thing at one end of the room. It didn't have a hope of heating the kitchen at all. Consequently, the door was kept firmly shut to prevent cold draughts from it disturbing the lounge. It now has an additional Myson Kickspace fan convector under the units, which gets the room toasty in minutes, making working in the kitchen a relatively enjoyable experience, rather than one that requires coats to be donned.
Christian.
Before you go any further, remember that wall space in a kitchen is often very limited. If this applies to you and you don't want to use valuable wall space, consider installing a Myson Kickspace fan convector. These fit under the kitchens behind the plinth using previously wasted space. They produce as much heat as a very large radiator and spread this heat around the room very quickly. You can connect them up via a dedicated programmable thermostat that controls only the kitchen, as well as its own 2 port valve. If you go S-Plan-Plus, it will be entirely independent of the rest of the house's heating, but this isn't absolutely necessary, especially as the fan convector will be so effective that it is likely to turn itself off long before the rest of house system room stat turns off. (If the system is plumbed using constant fan/flow switch interlock, it will be entirely independent, again).
It is a more expensive option, but massively superior to using conventional radiators in most kitchens. Kitchen/diners may find is less necessary, as wall space isn't such a premium.
Christian.
In message , Christian McArdle writes
Indeed, I can't imagine not wanting heating in my kitchen, most days the cooker/oven is mostly used just for the evening meal - or maybe for a quick lunchtime snack, it would be horribly cold in the mornings and most of the day - though I suppose it does depend partly on the layout of the house, a smaller kitchen maybe have less of a problem
Thanks for the advice guys, found the manifolds for the downstairs rads last night, easy to find as the board hadn't been screwed back in place
will do a similar search tonight upstairs
-- Rx
Remember that manifolds are just a convenience. If it is actually more convenient to branch off the 22mm "trunk" lines, then do so.
Christian.
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