It all seemed straight forward in my head... its only when you try and fit hot and cold feeds for two showers, two baths, two basins, and two loos each with service valves into a bit of stud wall you find it turns into quite a complicated mess of pipes!
Oh my! Nice tidy work there! :)
It does turn to spaghetie quickly, I've got a 'orrible mess that will be under a floor that really needs sorting out. CH flow/ret that splits, H & C water, rising main, cold feed bank from tanks, that splits...
I'm sure you have a cunning plan but how do you access those valves when the bath is in place (I'm assuming the two vertical unconnected valves are for the bath) And none of the levers foul the studwork, anti-clock on for the one blue that is off?
I've also come to the conclusion that service valves per fitting is a waste of valves and effort fitting them. Just fit one in each supply for a given room. After all if you have the place apart doing things it's not likely that the room will be "in service".
I do hope that that's NOT gas coming in on the yellow ball c*ck lower right :)
Andrew
In message , John Rumm writes
Hmm.. copper knitting..
My proposed set is not yet clear in my head:-)
Huh! I'll put up some photos of my underfloor heating manifolds if you want to see *mess*.
Several thoughts on service valves. Concur on one per room but only if you have suitable alternative facilities. Water regs.(I think) call for a service valve fitted to each cistern controlled by a ball valve so you may as well fit that locally if possible.
Throttling high pressure water flow is noisy so perhaps best to avoid cheap, non full flow versions.
>
There is as much again going on under the floor!
Easy enough - the bath is actually to the left of that stud wall with one face missing on the left. The pair of 22mm feeds running to the left are for the bath.
If you look at:
The pipe photo shows the view as if one were looking at the top right hand basin (i.e. other side of the back wall of the shower in the adjacent bathroom).
Unlike the plan, I am enclosing that space in a shallow 5" deep cupboard that will stand a bit taller than the basin, and create a small shelf space behind it (that way I can stick a cabinet above the basin without it being so "in your face" as when the basin is right back against the wall). A door to the side (or sides) of the basin's pedestal will allow access to all the valves.
No those are for the basin, and are spaced either side of the waste pipe you can see sticking out of the floor (although you can't really just the spacing from the photo). They will poke through the enclosed bit to just behind the basin pedestal.
They don't - although the bottom right leaver valve is rotated at a slight angle so it misses the upright.
There are two blue ones - the one on the horizontal 22mm run that then connects to the bent 22mm is currently off since it terminates in an open pipe at the mo. (There is a second on the pipe in the centre section that comes up out of the floor - that is on, and is a master valve that will shut the who first storey hot supply off (no longer strictly needed - but it did not seem worth removing))
I considered that - it would have been easier. But I wanted to allow for things like when you get a shower valve or appliance that needs shutting off because of a fault - its handy to be able to isolate just it when it might be some days before you can fix it.
Yup, those will be local. As are the ones for the bath and basin in the adjacent room.
All the valves I have used are full bore - part of the objective to make everything quieter (I also managed to eliminate lots of "spaghetti" piping, stubs and dead legs under the floor, and use pipe bends rather than elbows etc in many cases).
I have also included a pressure reduction valve on the cold just after the master valve[1]. That is set to limit it to about 3.5 bar to match the pressure set on the inlet PRV on the unvented cylinder. It also makes things like cistern refills a bit quieter than running off the 6 bar incoming main directly.
[1] There is a "balanced" cold feed available from the cylinder's PRV, but I did not have a 22mm pipe available to bring that upstairs, so an additional PRV was easier than getting in a new pipe run.
Could explain the smell of gas when you run a bath ;-)
Other knitting:-)
May be of interest to others, when I installed a new wash basin against a stud wall, above it I set a slim bathroom cabinet (found one the right depth in a local shed) INTO the hollow stud wall, so that only the mirror doors project from the face of the wall. Looks quite good - to my and SWMBO's mind.
That's quite a neat option. If one extends the concept a bit, in many cases there would be nothing stopping you fitting a wider one in the same if you cut a section of of a stud, and ran trimmers out to the remaining studs either side.
Was the design inspired by that Windows screensaver many years ago?
The problem with that is that there's the same setup in the flat next door, and the bad guys just have to remove the cabinets in order to come and get you ... what was that movie?
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