Pebbledash Painting

I am painting a 1930's ex-council house. I am sure it has been stripped and re-pebbled a few times. I am dealing with old pebbledash on the main house and new-ish pebble on some of the extensions. The house has not been painted for at least 10 years--maybe more. What I really need to know is -- What is the best brush to use. I've gone through all of my brushes/rollers and still feel as though there is a better way. I am looking for anyone's "best brush" recommendation before I go up the ladder to do the hard parts. Thanks All. Jim

Reply to
Jimbo
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My house is painted p/dash too and living here 23 years I've done it all at least 3 times. My experience is there's no quick and easy way. I use a wide 6" brush to do the thin fungicide and sealer coats, then for the first coat of paint I use a good and thick 3" ordinary paintbrush. You could use 4" if your wrist is strong enough but I found 3" better. You have to work the paint into all the crevices etc - don't be stingy with it, and make sure there are no missed spots (you need to look from every angle). This is where it makes your wrist ache. Then for the last coat I use a long lambswool roller, which is really quick!

Hope this helps and good luck. Peter

Reply to
Peter Taylor

I'd use a long haired acrylic roller. Most trade paint outlets stock them. Very frustrating with a brush, and the circular motion you end up using makes your arm ache.

Reply to
stuart noble

For something as rough as pebbledash, maybe spraying might be easier...

Reply to
Mike Harrison

Oh, one other thing I forgot to mention. IMO there's nothing better than a pressure washer for preparing the walls before painting. Mine tend to get algae growth, which washes off easily. The pressure washer also removes all the loose paint really well. I do the washing at least a week before I start painting, to let it dry out.

Peter

Reply to
Peter Taylor

Also, consider a solvent based masonry paint from Macphersons, Johnstones etc

Reply to
stuart noble

I used a long haired roller, but also with a bit of a stippling action to work the paint in well

Reply to
Conrad Edwards

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