Just read the text on use: "The temperature of the substrate should be minimum 10°C and at least 3°C above the dew point of the air, temperature and relative humidity measured in the vicinity of the substrate"
be good to know how you measure that at home :-)
Bollocks. Thirty years ago (reunion next year!) I was working in BT's Factories Division in Birmingham. The paint chaps there were experts in spraying hammer-finish enamels (they taught me how to do it) and the on-site QA department Cared Very Deeply Indeed about things like paint coatings and their longevity. Spraying, from an appropriately thinned paint, is really the only way to get the best finish with hammer enamels. Otherwise the same mechanisms that produce the hammer effect also have the opportunity (in a mobile brushed coat) to pull it into pinholes too.
In article , Andy Dingley writes
My practice has been -contrary to the instructions- to apply a very well thinned first coat; this seems to avoid the creation of pin holes. As soon as this is touch dry I follow up with the undiluted top coat.
Astonishing stuff.
Yes if you are not careful it sticks the lid on the can, and even when applied to a properly prepared substrate it can still fail - it then comes off in sheets. On vehicle suspension normal debris thrown up by the roads leads to pinprick holes, road salt easily penetrates and 100% failure of the coating is only a few months behind. It lasts about 5 years before it gets to that point though.
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I use truck chassis paint on suspensions. Bitumen-based, except harder than the cheap bitumens. Resistant to pinholes, abrasion, impact and corrosion behind the topcoat. Cheap too, if you buy big cans from the right motor factor.
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