Paint for bodging

[Tim Downie]

When I say bodging, I mean that I need something to tart up a very old window frame (actually an old shop window) that is really way beyond economic repair but could do with smartening up.

I'll only have a few hours to do the whole job (it's 250 miles away from home) and spending more time/money on it isn't an option so no lectures please.

Ideally I need a paint that can go directly on old wood, be breathable, can cope without a primer coat and not all fall off too quickly. It it looks half decent for more than 6 months I'll consider that a bonus.

Any recommendations for a one-coat wonder paint that will do the job?

Tim

[Tabby]

White alkyd undercoat would work, but you'd need 2 coats, and you wont have time. Topcoat doesnt have enough opacity.

Acrylic undercoat is fast drying and high build, I'd probably use that given the 3 hrs. Being matt it'll pick up dirt later.

NT

[TMC]

Sadolin superdec?

[stuart noble]

Only option I'd say. Hope for a warm day

[Andy Dingley]

Two coats? Get the first on ASAP, then leave it wet from the second just before you're leaving.

[Tim Downie]

That would be a bit anti-social, it's right on the street with a narrow pavement.

[John Rumm]

Only time I have needed to do something similar, I used an acrylic egg shell type of paint. It has fairly high opacity, and seems to stick to most surfaces. The mid level shine looks smart enough without being so glossy as to show every imperfection in the (lack of) preparation!

[george [dicegeorge]]

and a big tub of car body filler from halfords etc [g]

[root]

You may jest ... I've learned the hard way (is there any other?) that small jobs always grow into more complicated ones after you've started. Especially when it's for someone else - generally an aged relative and the conversation goes "it only needs a quick coat of paint ..." And even more so when you're away from all your tools, chemicals, adhesives and other bits you take for granted at home.

I'd suggest going prepared with a can of Ronseal Wood Hardener and some disposable syringes to apply it (it does tend to dissolve them slowly)

all the accoutrements neede to gouge out any dodgy wooden bits

and a tub of their 30 minute filler

conveniently, is available in white.

[Tabby]

You reckon you could do all that plus 2 coats plus 1 dry time in 3 hrs? I don't think I could, unless its a very small window.

NT

[root]

filler

>>> which, conveniently, is available in white.

Nope. It all depends on how much prep needs to be done. That's what always takes me the longest time. I doubt very much that there would be time for 2 coats, although I'd expect that the 3 hours will become 4 or 5 on the day (my "quick" jobs always do :( ) which might just be enough for prep (fill if needed), prime and top coat or 2 coats of something quick-drying.

Although .. since the job is a 500 mile round trip, the petrol cost alone would come to something like Â80. That might make it economical to get someone local to spend an hour or two doing the work, if all he wants is a quick slap of paint to pretty the place up before selling it (or something similar).

[Steve Firth]

Profilan Opac. It's excellent for what you want and will last for longer than six months. I use it around the farm and it has the advantages of being cheap, easy to use, looking good on exterior woodwork for a long time. It is *not* a gloss finish.

the directions carefully, in particular the bit about needing to rub down flaking paint and the instruction to *not* use steel wool.

[Tabby]

I'm guessing prep work for such a job would just be a quick rub with a metal scourer to remove anything loose.

If there is any rot or cracking, it would only take a few mins to wipe filler over it, and paint it while still wet. I like linseed putty, car body filler also works. Even filler on rot would probably last the summer.

NT

[Mark]

Yes x2 thats what i would use

-

[Mike Clarke]

[snip]

And me 2. Expensive stuff these days but well worth it.