Today is the day our high speed broadband went live. I got 44Mbps
earlier this morning, same for Wifey. Our son, though, struggles to get
3Mbps download - but 12Mbps upload, which seems odd.
We use homeplugs (yeah, I know) because solid, thick granite walls
completely bollix wireless signals. Router is connected directly to BT
main socket, and feeds a homeplug. There is another homeplug in the
kitchen, to which our (self and wife) laptops connect, wirelessly.
Son is in another room, and his desktop is hard wired to another
homeplug, yet our downloads are far faster than his.
My little Tosh netbook is W98, Wifey Tosh laptop W7 and son desktop W8.1
Why might son's download connection be so slow?
I suppose I could buy a long CAT5 cable and connect his desktop directly
to router? We have swapped the homeplugs around, but son's connection
First, I'd temporarily plug your machine, and your son's machine direct
into the router with a cat5, unplig the powerline stuff then do a
speedtest on each (not at same time, obv.) from there you have a better
idea of the speed you're aiming for on each machine, and whether son's
PC itself has a problem rather than the method of connection ...
Right Guys, you have all said the same thing. I do have more than
enough CAT5 cable, but only in two pieces. Yes, I have a joiner but can
I find it? Not a chance.
Plan B. Found a reel of phone cable, which enabled me to bring the
router down to his desktop. A bit of a bodge, but it works. Son's
speed immediately shot up to 44Mbps, hard wired to the router. Hard
wired Wifey's laptop, and she almost had an orgasm. 74Mbps. My little
Tosh shows 25Mbps, but that is probably because the other two are so
excited they're trying YouTube, games and all sorts.
So, the answer is obviously some hard wiring, or at the least move the
main BT socket downstairs, to be next to son's desktop. The good news
is I now know exactly what the problem is, and how to fix it.
Interestingly, the homeplugs are now all unplugged, and I have just
disconnected CAT5 from Wifey's laptop and my netbook, so we're both
picking up wireless direct from the router (which is now closer than it
used to be). My speed it 20, Wifey's is 36, but her laptop has always
picked up a better signal than my netbook. Assuming I can properly wire
the router where it is now, we may be able to live without the
Thank you all, as ever :-)
Are the homeplugs on the same ring main? I tried a pair for my smart tv
with one upstairs next to the router and one downstairs next to the tv and
got such slow speeds that iPlayer and YouTube were continuously pausing.
I think this is because the signals have to go through the consumer unit
via 2 MCBs. I gave up and ran a network cable in with no further problems.
I can confirm that passing through a pair of CUs will seriously affect
the homeplug signal. Mine just won't work like that, but will work fine
if on the same CU. Similarly, some power extensions will block the
signal, I believe it's to do with the surge protectors built in to some
of them. Try plugging them directly into the socket in the wall.
Then get rid of the homeplugs anyway!
Is the right answer and for the feed to the AP in the kitchen. If
that is a WiFi Homeplug bin it and get a cheap AP. Aldi have (had..)
Miginon WLR-510 AP/Repeater/Client 2.4 and 5 GHz 802.11 a/bg/n "up
to" 300 Mbps plug top device marked down to £14. Or Tesco have
TP-Link TL-WR841N 2.4 GHz only AP/Router for £20. The TP-Link will
probably do a little better for range as it has external (but non
removeable) aerials but if you are in the same room as it that's
unlikely to be noticeable.
Wouldn't be at all surprised if the crap being put onto the mains
wiring and radiated from it is getting into the VDSL and stopping
that running at it's best as well.
On Wed, 29 Apr 2015 19:04:42 +0100, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
Which is why I bought the Aldi WLR-510. It's probably wise to
manually set the channel(s) used when you have more than one AP so
they don't stomp on each other also bear in mind if one AP is
wireless n it needs two channels to achieve the "300 Mbps". I'm not
sure if the additional bandwidth has to be above the allocated
channel or not. Only channels 3, 6 & 11 don't mutally intefer. I'd
bung the main and wireless n cabable AP on ch 3 and secondary AP on
Set the SSIDs and passwords to be the same on both and it should be
transparent to the user that they change AP.
Indeed, and I have at least two spare routers.
Thinking aloud here. There are various options. To summarise. BT main
socket is upstairs, connected directly to cable coming in from roof.
Router is plugged directly into BT main socket, and self and wife can
pick up an acceptable wi-fi signal everywhere downstairs. Son's desktop
needs a cable from router to PC.
1. Just buy a wireless dongle for son's desktop, and leave everything
2. Extend the CAT5 downstairs, and either hardwire son's desktop
directly, or install a second access point.
3. Extend the CAT5 downstairs, and just move the original router
downstairs, and hardwire son's desktop, with self and wifey picking up
4. Move the main (and only) BT socket downstairs, and move router with
Which is best - extending the BT socket, or extending the CAT5? Or does
it make little practical difference to overall download speeds? I have
sufficient BT and CAT5 cable to do either.
You can't (or at least may not) move the BT socket.
The best solution, as installed here, is to run a CAT5 cable from an output
of the router to your son's room. It can, like mine, go outdoors if that
makes an easier cable run
Agreed. Just trying to get together the necessary parts. Having found
faceplates online, I went to the shed to find back boxes, and found
three - all different sizes. Are RJ45 modules with faceplates likely to
fit a standard 13 amp socket type back box, or a phone extension back
box or something else? The description, helpfully, does not mention the
size back box required. I could wait for the faceplates to arrive, but
that just causes another delay.
Yes, the face plates are standard single/double gang size. I thought
you where asking about depth though. A 16 mm deep box will be pushing
it, 25 mm OK, 35 mm roomy. You don't want to kink/fold the CAT5 but
neatly coil the excess 6" to 9" into the back of the box when fitting
the connected module and faceplate.
Also as a single faceplate can take two modules and the hardwork is
running cables run two cables even if you only connect one to a
module at this stage. This is where a 35 mm box comes in handy to
take the excess cable.
Router does not equate to Access Point. Though most domestic internet
boxes are "all in ones" containing a modem, a router, a network
switch and access point. Personally I don't like this, it's a single
point of failure at a key point of the system. And more often than
not the best place for he modem is not the best place for the Access
Point. But anyway...
Not techinically legal and the [V|A]DSL signal is tiny and prone to
interference. I'd avoid runing the phone line through a relatively
electrically noisey place like a home. Keep modem on short as wire as
possible (make one up) next to the BT socket and run CAT5/ethernet
which is designed to work in noisey enviroments to a more convient
location for a small switch into which all the LAN wiring conects.
May or may not ... depends on the immediate electrical enviroment. If
you want to wring every last Mbps out of the connection one has to
take care. 5 Mbps missing from 50 is not such a big deal as 0.5 Mbps
I think I would be inclined to leave it there, for a number of reasons:
a) to avoid frigging with the BT side of things (you're not supposed to
touch the master socket apart from removing the lower half of the
faceplate to disconnect extension wiring and using the test socket),
b) to keep the analogue side of things (the BT line) as short as
c) the BT line and router are probably in a more interference-free
environment in the loft, being physically distanced from things like the
ring main, boiler, immersion, TV, electrical appliances, etc.
If you relocate it to within the house, you may introduce it to a more
electrically noisy environment with a consequent drop in ADSL
by 'downstairs', do you mean the floor immediately below the
I'd do this. Hardwire it, but if you want to add more things in future
(e.g. a game console or smart TV), you can simply add a switch or a
no, leave the BT stuff alone, then there's no comeback if a fault
develops with the line in future and the "engineer" takes exception to
You can use the Cat5 to extend the BT line if you want - its' spec
exceeds that of BT (CW1308) cable considerably. Use the same pair
colours (blue and blue/white) for consistency and avoid the temptation
to use the unused pairs for anything else such as extensions to avoid
It would be best to keep the BT line as short as possible and avoid
running it through an electrically noisy environment. That means your
loft location is probably pretty much ideal. You can extend the
Ethernet from the router in the loft using Cat5 as much as you like with
no concerns about signal loss up to the maximum cable length of 100m.
Perhaps consider a Cat5 run from the router in the loft to a wireless AP
on the floor below, and another to an AP on the floor below that. That
should pretty much cover your needs.
:: je suis Charlie :: yo soy Charlie :: ik ben Charlie ::
And responses from uk.d-i-y are an Even Better Thing :-)
Right. You all say extend the CAT5 not the BT line, so that is the way
forward. Just to clarify, the main BT socket is in a bedroom. It was
in a porch with a leaking roof, and was a mess. The line terminated in
one of those brown GPO junction boxes with two rows of six terminals,
from there to the main socket, which was unused (who has a phone in a
porch?) and from there to a slave socket. When we bought cordless
phones, I disconnected the cable from the junction box, and found it was
just long enough to enter a bedroom without any splicing, so fed it in
there and reattached the junction box and master socket, ignoring the
First step will be to run CAT5 from the router (modem/router/network
switch/access point) which will be in the bedroom, beside the main BT
socket, outside and down to room containing son's desktop. Once that
works, I'll think about a second access point, but having read a little,
that involves scary stuff like IP addresses and netmasks and other
Of course, this also involves putting plugs on CAT5, which is even more
scary. I do have the kit, and even a tester, but last time, it took me
about three tries at each end :-)
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