Oil fired heating question, help please....

Hello Everybody, We have recently moved into a house in the middle of Snowdonia in Wales which isn't supplied with mains gas. So we have a big Stanley range (like an Aga) in the kitchen which, as well as doing the cooking, supplies hot water to a cylinder upstairs and heats water for the central heating system direct from its internal boiler. Its fired by oil from a tank outside in the garden. I recently bled the radiators and 3 of the upstairs ones had a far bit if air in them. When I did this before in our previous modern, condenser boilered house you would then need to top up the heating system by letting more water in it via a valve on the boiler to about 1.5 BAR as indicated by a guage on the boiler. I presume I need to do this on our current system but cannot see how to do it. There is no inlet or pressure dial on the range, I have found the heating pump and room stat, nothing there either. Theres a water tank in the loft but nothing else. Trouble is there are pipes running everywhere as there are open fires in all of the downstairs rooms and 2 of them look to have had back boilers (no longer used) judging by the pipes coming from behind them. Does anybody know if these type of systems are self filling or something or if not how I top up the system and how I know when the pressure in the system is about right?? The heating system is working fine and all of the rads are getting hot but I just want to know if I need to keep it pressured as in a more modern system. Thanks in advance for any guidance, Steve.

Reply to
steve573
Loading thread data ...

Hi

almost certainly topped up from a header tank(in the attic?)

Allan

Reply to
Allan Mac

Yes, nothing to do with it being oil fired, just an older system! The ball valve in the header tank is likely connected to the incoming cold water main. It is prudent to periodically check that valve is working and the header tank has water in it.

Reply to
Michael Chare

Exactly the same set up as we have, header tank in the loft , gravity fed for the hot water tank and a pump for the CH very simple system!! as long as the header tank has the correct amount of water in it, the system works,

Des

Reply to
Dieseldes

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember "steve573" saying something like:

Only the one? If there's not a small header tank then you will have a direct system, which takes its supply from the main cold storage tank. If that's the case I'd recommend you change it by adding a separate header tank, but that would involve changing the hot cylinder to an indirect type.

If it's working well, you could leave it alone and keep your fingers crossed that you have a fairly chalk-free water supply.

Reply to
Grimly Curmudgeon

This wont be a pressurised system. Either it has its own small header tank, in which case adding inhibitor would prevent further corrosion and gas formation, or else it doesnt have its own header. If it doesnt, the CH will be fed from the hw supply, and you cant put inhibitor in it. Googling primatic cylinder should explain that option.

Oh, all thats needed is that there is some water in the header tank, if it has one.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.